Monday, March 20, 2017

Wintertime Happenings, Sun, and Clouds

Since I've replaced my "Month in Review" blog posts with monthly cultural posts, I thought it would still be fun to do "happenings" posts every few months....which allows me to continue to reflect on my sunny and cloudy moments AND to look back at the things I've done that may not have warranted their own blog post for whatever reason. 

So, as the springtime weather is slowly beginning to creep in...here are some of my wintertime happenings and reflections! 

~*Happenings*~

Nagoya Coffee Stand - Walk Rally - One weekend, when Kaz and I were visiting a new coffee shop, we saw a sign for a coffee rally to be held the very next day. Perfect timing for two coffee lovers, huh?! The coffee rally was held at three coffee shops around town. Each shop featured coffee from four or five coffee shops/roasters in the Nagoya area. Attendees purchased tickets in advance and then used their tickets to try the various drinks. 

The event was crowded and we had to wait in long lines at each of the coffee shops; however, the lines seemed to get shorter with each shop we visited - so that was nice. I also really enjoyed seeing so many people out enjoying the event and trying coffee! 

Japanniversary - January 4th was our "Japanniversary" - a whole year in Japan!! A few weeks later, after everyone returned from their holiday travels, we celebrated with the three lovely families who arrived in Japan on the same day that we did. How did we celebrate, you ask?! With Mexican night, of course! And, New Year's candy-filled bags for the kids...and one AMAZING strawberry shortcake!


Going to the movies - This definitely sounds way more exciting than it actually was; however, one thing we haven't done since arriving in Japan is to go to the movies. Especially since many of the movies don't come out in Japan until months after they debut in the US. For example, I have to wait until the end of April before I'll be able to see Beauty and the Beast. I had assumed that all of the movies would be dubbed in Japanese - so I hadn't actually ever thought about going to the movies until Kaz mentioned that he really wanted to see the new Star Wars movie. I was both surprised and pleased to find out, however, that many of the theaters offer an English viewing (with Japanese subtitles) once or twice a day. 

Noritake Gardens - Nagoya is home to Noritake Co., Limited, which is a leading company in the Japanese ceramics industry (and has been for close to 100 years). Noritake started out as a trading company for Japanese goods, which was established by the Morimura Brothers in New York City in 1876. Then, in 1904, the "original Noritake" company was established in the village of Noritake - a small neighborhood in Nagoya. The original goal of the company was to create western-style dinnerware for export. And, about ten years later in 1914, the first porcelain dinnerware plate (actually suitable for export) was created. 

The gardens were constructed on the former factory grounds and contain many exhibits detailing how the Noritake porcelain is made, as well as displaying old Noritake pieces. Visitors also have an opportunity to paint their own Noritake plate or mug. 

I visited the gardens twice within a matter of weeks. Once with a group of expats to paint our own Noritake plate and again with Kaz to explore the museums and gardens. 


Nagoya City Half Marathon - On March 12th, Kaz and I completed the Nagoya 1/2 Marathon - our second half marathon during our time in Japan. I had originally applied for the full marathon - as it's a woman-only race; however, they did a lottery and I wasn't chosen. Which actually worked out well - as I don't know if I would have been in full marathon shape by the time the run came around! The weather was perfect and although I didn't run the time I was aiming for - it was still really neat to run around "our city." 


Yuzen - A few weeks ago, I was able to try Yuzen, which is a Japanese dyeing technique for fabrics. Sensei Horibe is a master at using this technique to create the most beautiful kimonos I have ever seen! Ignorantly, I had absolutely NO clue that some kimono fabrics are actually hand-painted! I feel so lucky that I was able to watch him in action - if only for a few minutes. I gave the process a try and painted a few sakura blossoms. Man, he sure makes it looks easy! 


~*Kits Kats*~ 
Recently, my search for new and exciting Kit Kat flavors has left me empty-handed. I am beginning to wonder if the craze is ending and toying with the idea of finding a new snack/treat trend to explore! We were able to try two different "pudding" flavors this month...one of which was specific to the city of Kobe and the other which was much more generic. Kobe pudding won unanimously! 

~*Victories/Sunny Moments*~
Language - Over the past three months, I've been feeling a bit more confident when it comes to "using" my Japanese. Sure, the journey continues to have its ups and downs - my confidence can literally go from 100 to 0 in a single interaction - however, I have been putting myself out there more lately and am also feeling a bit less "fazed" when I fail completely! 

I found out in January that I passed the N5 Japanese Proficiency test, which means that I have a very basic understanding of the Japanese language...and can use simple (and rote) phrases when needed. Achieving this goal was definitely exciting for me (as I've studied a lot) and I've begun pondering whether I'll attempt N4 (the next level) this coming December. I've talked quite a bit with both Kaz and my sensei - and my goal as I continue to study is to increase my abilities to understand and communicate conversationally. The test focused much more on the mechanics of the language - and I am much more interested in using the language functionally! 

Last week, I also completed the Book 1 series and have moved on to the Book 2 series. As cheesy as it sounds, I did a little happy dance to celebrate this moment. I don't think I was expecting the sense of pride and accomplishment that accompanied this moment! As part of finishing up Series 1, I had to complete several review exercises...and it was during these exercises in which I realized just how much I have learned about the Japanese language in general. I can read short paragraphs (as long as I am able to look up specific vocabulary terms); understand a basic conversation (if I listen a few times); and, talk about my weekend (with some help and using rather simple language). If my sensei gives me a more complicated sentence in English, I am also getting better (and quicker) at translating it into Japanese. 

I've also had my first real-life conversations in Japanese recently. Kaz and I joined a gym in December and a few weeks ago one of the employees approached me and began speaking to me in Japanese. Although I totally stumbled - I was able to tell him that I was learning Japanese - and he was able to tell me that he was learning English. So, we had a conversation mainly in Japanese - with me using a bit of English from time to time. The neat thing was - I am pretty sure we both misunderstood portions of the conversation - but we were both able to laugh at those moments...which was definite motivation to continue trying to talk. Now, whenever I see him at the gym, we try to have a short conversation. I've even had to start thinking about things I may bring up when I see him...which is great practice for me - since I have to challenge myself to use more than just my basic sentences about who I am, where I'm from, and what I'm doing in Japan!! 

Work - I can confidently say that I am in "a groove" at work. After about a year, I am working with more students than I imagined I would be. My two days at the school are packed full and I am beginning to get to the point in which I am having to be creative in order to fit everybody in! I am really enjoying putting my "professional mind" to work - and am learning a lot from both my students and colleagues. 

I realized the other day that I haven't actually written a blog post about the adventures of being an SLP in a foreign country...so look for that post soon! I'm thinking it will be my "Everyday Differences" post for March! :) 

CCEA - This year, I have taken on the role of being the Membership Secretary for the Cross-Cultural Exchange Association (CCEA). CCEA is "a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting cultural exchange, international understanding, and friendships amongst women of all nationalities living in the Nagoya area." 

I first learned about the organization shortly after arriving in Japan. However, I was slow to look into the group because I was still trying to get my bearings straight...and wasn't sure I wanted to commit to anything. Then when I looked into joining about six months later, it was full. 

Last November, a friend of mine - who was the acting president of the organization - asked me if I would be interested in serving on the board in 2017. I was initially hesitant, however, I decided to give it a try. I am one of the membership secretaries, which means that I get to help manage and recruit members. Each board position has an expat representative and a Japanese representative who work together to fulfill the role. One of the best (and most interesting) parts of this role so far has been meeting and working with Japanese women - who I otherwise would probably not have met. We have monthly board meetings and it has been neat to see the cultural differences that frequently arise - like attention to details, comfort in vocalizing thoughts and opinions, etc. 

~*Challenges/Cloudy Moments*~ 
I was telling a friend of mine the other day that I am feeling much more settled in Japan lately. I can't quite put my finger on exactly what is making me feel more settled - other than the fact that life in Japan is just more familiar. Does it make more sense? Not really. Am I still basically illiterate and unable to communicate with others beyond simple interactions? Yep. Do I still stand out like a sore thumb? You bet! Am I still looking forward to returning to the US at the end of the year? Totally! And yet, Nagoya is starting to feel a bit more like home. The newness has begun to wear off, I have a better understanding of my surroundings and daily routines, I've begun to build a pretty solid friend base...and now that the "basics" of life don't require as much mental and physical energy...I am slowly finding other ways to challenge myself. If that makes sense?

If I had to sum up these thoughts into a single realization/lesson - it would be that moving to a new place (regardless of where it is) brings with it TONS of challenges and cloudy moments...and, with time...the sun starts to peek out...encouraging you to keep going! Here's to hoping that the sunny moments continue to outnumber the cloudy ones! 

Sun, clouds, and lots of love!
~Jaime

Friday, March 17, 2017

Honen Matsuri: A Phallic Fertility Festival

I should start this entry by warning you that many (if not all) of the pictures below may contain phallic symbols. None of which are inappropriate - they just may not be appropriate for the eye's of children. So...proceed with caution! :) Just felt the need to give readers a fair warning before jumping into this rather entertaining blog post. 

Last April, I read a magazine article about the Honen Matsuri ("Harvest Festival"). A fertility festival that is held every March right outside of Nagoya. I had vowed to myself that I would check it out this year - since my goal while living in Japan has been to have as many new and cultural experiences as possible. And, as the date approached, I realized that basically every other foreigner living in this area was also planning to attend the festival as well. So on the morning of March 15th, I jumped on the train (with just about everyone I've encountered since arriving in Japan) and headed to the festival! 

Although the festival is often referred to as the "Penis Festival" due to the amount of penis-shaped items (and there are TONS) - the festival is not actually dedicated to them. "Honen" means prosperous year in Japanese - implying a rich harvest. So, the festival actually celebrates the blessings of a bountiful harvest and prosperity and fertility in all aspects of life. Couples may pray for children, the unmarried may pray for a husband/wife, and farmers may pray for a bountiful harvest. There are a few of these types of festivals around Japan; however, this is one of the main ones. 

We arrived at the festival around 10am - just as a bunch of men were having some kind of competition in the middle of the street. I have searched and searched and still cannot determine exactly what was going on. Oh, how I wish my Japanese language skills were stronger! Check out the video below - and allow your imagination to make up some fun stories! 


Then, we climbed a hill to Kumano-sha Shrine where many of the wooden phalluses were being displayed before the parade. Interestingly, on even-numbered years, the phalluses are displayed at a different shrine in the city.  If walking around and taking in the sites wasn't enough - there were many Japanese people encouraging us to touch, rub, and even kiss the penises. We settled on some quick pictures instead. I had also read that woman wanting to get pregnant are supposed to rub the wooden penis as it is supposed to bring them good luck. This year, I decided to skip that ritual as well! 

After getting our fill of pictures, we headed down the hill and back to Tagata Jinja, where most of the festival was taking place. Like most Japanese festivals, there were food vendors everywhere and we perused the stalls of penis-shaped foods. Then, we claimed our milk crates (there was a parking lot filled with crates for people to sit on) and did some major people watching as we ate and waited for the parade to start. While there were probably more foreigners at this festival than Japanese, we VERY frequently found ourselves as the subjects of people's photos. And, they were not even trying to be discreet about it! At one point, a man started walking around us and took pictures for about five minutes. I actually put my scarf over my head - which I am sure made for an even more interesting photo. Who knows what he told people when he showed it to them!!! 


The procession started around 2pm. Shinto priests lead the way, purifying the paths between the two temples. Next, several 36-year old women (wearing traditional Japanese clothing) followed carrying 60 cm phalluses. Apparently 36 is an unlucky age to be a single woman in Japan. Then came the mikoshis (portable shrines) - one containing the deity and the other containing the large wooden phallus, which weighed 620 pounds and was made from a single tree. The men carrying the large wooden phallus were all apparently 42 years old...which is an unlucky age for men to be single in Japan. Throughout the parade, men and women touched and rubbed the small wooden penises, workers handed out free glasses of sake, and the participants often stopped to quickly spin the giant phallus around in circles while singing/saying prayers. Quite the spectacle - that's for sure! This was definitely another experience to add to my "strange" Japanese experiences - and even more support for "oxymoron" being my word to describe the entire country of Japan!!

Since my descriptions just don't do this experience justice - check out the pictures and videos below! 

Sunday, March 12, 2017

Travel Entry: A Day in Kobe

One of the things that has been on my "To Do" list (see blog page for complete list) since we arrived in Japan was to try Kobe beef...in the city of Kobe! So, a few weekends ago...Kaz and I spent a sunny Sunday exploring the city of Kobe. Kobe is about 70-minute Shinkansen ride from Nagoya - a totally doable day trip! 

Kobe is the sixth largest city in Japan - and is located on the north shore of Osaka Bay. Kobe is one of Japan's main port cities. In fact, it was Japan's busiest port city until the 1995 Great Hashin earthquake. Today, it's Japan's fourth busiest container port. Because Kobe is a port city - it has quite an international influence and a very cosmopolitan feel. 

We began our day by walking around the actual Port of Kobe. Much of the port was destroyed by the earthquake in 1995 and had to be rebuilt (one positive is that this rebuilding process allowed them to modernize the port and better "earthquake proof" it for the future). The port has an outdoor memorial dedicated to the earthquake victims...and includes an area that was preserved so visitors could better understand the extent of the damage. 

Interestingly, the park on the actual port is called Merikan Park and comes from the word - "American." The American consulate used to be located nearby and people referred to the park as "the park by the American consulate" which was then shorted overtime to "Merikan Park." 

Today, the port also contains a fancy outdoor shopping mall, a ferris wheel, some cruise ship terminals and many "Western" wedding venues. We even saw a couple getting married on a boat that was docked at the port. I've read that many Japanese couples will have both a Western-style wedding and a traditional Japanese wedding...and based on the number of wedding venues and shops we saw in Kobe...I wouldn't be surprised if Kobe was one of the main places in Japan to have a Western-style wedding. 

On our walk to the port, we also stumbled upon another memorial to the earthquake victims. A staircase next to a fountain led to an underground memorial with the 6000+ names. The memorial was one of the uniquest I've seen - the water from the fountain pounding down onto the ceiling was quite powerful. 

After exploring the port, we headed to the Kitano neighborhood. This neighborhood contains a number of foreign residences from the late Meji and early Taisho eras. Many of these residences have been converted into small museums and visitors can pay a set fee to go inside each of them. Or, you can simply walk around them and explore the exterior - plus the little food areas and shops. We spent some time enjoying wine and chocolate cake at the Austrian and Denmark house. Kaz was impressed because they actually served a wine he has not had since he studied abroad in Denmark years ago. And, the cake we ate is shipped directly from Vienna weekly! 
After a morning of exploring, we headed to our excitedly awaited Kobe beef lunch! The restaurant was really neat - they actually cooked the steak right in front of us (which is quite common for Japan). I learned that in order to maintain the authenticity of the beef - they only grill it in Kobe beef fat (no oil or lard from other meat can be used). The beef was delicious - and well worth the try if you get the chance. I will say, however, that I still think Hida beef (from the Takayama region) is the best beef I've ever tasted! 
Our afternoon explorations lead us through Kobe's Chinatown, which is very different from any Chinatown I've ever visited. The streets were filled with Chinese restaurants, shops, and of course food stalls/vendors. While I've been reading about the dangers of eating from food stalls in Beijing (as we are headed there in a few weeks), none of these worries even remotely pertained to Kobe's Chinatown. The streets were spotless and the food looked and smelled delicious. If we weren't stuffed from lunch - we would have totally eaten our fill here! Wandering around made me wonder if Japanese people expect that this is the norm...and I also wonder what Chinese and even American tourists think when they visit.  
Kobe is also famous for "nada" sake, which is characterized by its sharp and dry flavor. The five areas where this sake is produced are known as the “Nadagogo (five villages of Nada)” and are located about a ten-minute train ride from downtown Kobe. The areas are ideally located near the production area of the high-quality brewer’s rice - where  the subsoil water of the mineral-rich Rokko Mountains is gathered, and the cold winter wind blows down from Mount Rokko to enhance the flavor of the sake. Since we were short on time, we only visited one sake brewery - Hakutsuru Sake Brewery. The brewery was neat as its museum and tasting room were in the original building and the numerous newer and more industrial buildings could be seen towering in the background.
We ended our trip by taking the cable car up to the top of Mount Rokko. Although the weather was a bit overcast and hazy, we were still able to get some great views of Kobe and it's surrounding areas. We enjoyed some tea at the mountain-top cafe while we waited for it to get dark and were rewarded with even more impressive views of the sparkling lights of Kobe (and its surrounding cities - Osaka being one of them). 
Kobe was a neat city to explore - and I would definitely recommend making a day or weekend trip out of it. The more cities that we visit in Japan - the more impressed I am by how different and unique they each feel. And, by the immense pride that each area takes in its history and food!!!