A few weeks ago, I took an overnight trip with two friends to Koyasan, Japan. Koyasan is a small town nestled in the mountains and is the world headquarters of the Koyasan Shingon esoteric sect of Japanese Buddhism. Koyasan was founded in 816 and is considered a sacred site by many; in fact, it is a very popular pilgrimage destination. Tourists visiting Koyasan can stay overnight in a temple (called a shukubo) and can experience the lifestyle of a Japanese monk. Koyasan is also considered one of the world's most sacred mountains and after spending only twenty-four hours there...I couldn't agree more.
Our four-hour drive to Koyasan was filled with beautiful fall foliage and ended with a rather twisty (and occasionally frightening) ascent up the mountain. We were immediately greeted with greenery that gave the town a very remote and immediately calming feel. The pops of fall color and glimpses of temples every which way added to the magic. Koyasan has one main road, which runs from one famous landmark (Danjo Garan-on) to another famous landmark (Okunoin). Our shukubo was conveniently situated in the middle and made exploring the town on foot extremely convenient.
In the last few hours of sunlight, we decided to explore Danjo Garan-on. Danjo Garan-on was the first complex built by Kobo Daishi in Koyasan and is filled with temples, buildings, and even a pagoda. It is said that Kobo Daishi spent years traveling around Japan - trying to find the best place to start his religion - before settling in Koyasan. The most important of the buildings in this complex is Kongobu-ji - the head temple of Shingon Buddhism.
After a bit of exploring, we were able to take part in a thirty-minute meditation class offered by the temple next door to ours. I've been wanting to take a meditation class since arriving in Japan (however, they are offered a lot less than I think I expected)....and so I've been doing some meditation on my own. I haven't created as much of a habit out of daily meditation as I have wanted to - and Koyasan was the perfect place to remind me of just how important it is to take time out of each day to just be with my breath. The class was even offered in English which was a great bonus!
Once we finished class, we headed back to our temple to get ready for dinner. A traditional "monk" meal was served - no meat, no fish, no onion, and no garlic. The food was delicious - and we ate together in a traditional tatami room. Aside from the space heaters in the individual rooms, there was no heat in the temple...so we were extra thankful for the kotatsu table and the wool coats they gave us to wear over our yukatas. 
After dinner, we bundled up with as many layers as we could and headed out for an English-guided tour (we really lucked out!) of Okunoin. Okunoin is the largest and perhaps most sacred cemetery in Japan. It currently houses more than 200,000 graves and is nestled in a forest filled with tall Japanese cedars. Anyone, regardless of religious belief or ethnicity, can be buried here. I have to say, I was initially hesitant about agreeing to walk through a cemetery at night...however, I was surprised that instead of being filled with a sense of eeriness...I was instead filled with a sense of calm. 
Throughout our tour, we learned a lot of interesting information about Okunoin...which enabled us to enjoy our stroll through the next morning even more. Since we actually knew and understood what we were looking at. Upon first entering the cemetery, we walked over a bridge meant to separate the physical and spiritual world. We then followed a paved path which was lined with lanterns. On the sides of the lanterns were different phases of the moon. Our guide told us that Shingon Buddhists believed our mind to be the shape of a moon...always changing depending on our understanding and experiences. We crossed another bridge which brought us even deeper into the cemetery. At night, we could just barely make out the shapes of the graves and trees...in the morning, we found that we had actually been surrounded by graves and statues as far as our eyes could see.
Upon crossing a third bridge, we were told that we were entering the most sacred part of the cemetery. Guests are not allowed to eat, take pictures, or even wear hats. Apparently, in the past, when guests would enter this part of the cemetery - they would rinse themselves with water. Currently, many Buddhist statues now line this last entry point and visitors are instructed to splash them gently with water before entering. Once crossing the bridge, we could make out a beautiful building covered in lanterns in the distance. Families and friends buy lanterns to honor their loved ones...and they remain lit. In fact, many are said to have been burning for the past 900 years. In addition to the outside, the inside of the building is filled with rows and rows of lit lanterns as well. 
Finally, we came to the most important building in the entire cemetery - and the one nestled the deepest inside. The Gobyo is said to house Kukai (better known as Kobu Daishi) - the founder of this sect of Buddhism. Kukai is very famous in Japan - and is known by many as the "father of Japanese culture." He is credited with starting public education in Japan as well as creating the Japanese language systems of hiragana and katakana. Legend has it that when he was sixty, Kukai locked himself inside the Gobyo to meditate. It is said that he will continue to meditate until the Buddha of the future arrives. The head monk of Okunoin is the only person that has the power to enter this building - but has not done so (that we know of anyway). Two times per day - the monks cook meals (in a kitchen that is housed in Okunoin) and bring the meals as offerings to support Kukai's meditation. While stories are obviously open to one's own beliefs and interpretations - hearing these stories helped me to understand one of the reasons why Okunoin (and Koyasan in general) gave off such a sacred feel. 
The next morning, we awoke early so that we would be able to participate in the monks daily prayer service. As we entered the room, we rubbed incense on our hands and then kneeled as the monks sang and chanted for about thirty minutes. Then, we were walked into another part of the temple where the monks carried out a fire ritual meant to offer up prayers, wishes, and requests. We each were given a wooden stick and told to write a prayer/message on. As part of the ceremony, each of us tossed our sticks into the fire. The entire experience was fascinating to watch and impossible to explain in words. I was able to take a short video clip that I hope will help you to understand the experience at least a little bit.
After another traditional Japanese meal, we checked out and spent a few hours exploring Okunoin in the daylight before making our way back to Nagoya. As we explored, rain began to fall which added even more to the solidarity and vastness of the cemetery. Hopefully the pictures will do Okunoin at least a little bit of justice!
If you are looking for a break from the craziness of life - and want some time to slow down and just be....Koyasan is definitely the place to visit! I am thankful that I had an opportunity to visit...and hope to spend some time here again before leaving Japan.
Cloudy Moments: Lack of heaters...if I had to pick one! ;)
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