This past weekend, Kaz and I spent three fun-filled days exploring Seoul, South Korea. We'd booked our trip months before all of the safety concerns had arisen; and, after much thought and consideration, we still decided to go - as there really weren't any more concerns in Seoul than in Japan or the US.
I'm not sure what I was expecting Seoul to be like - but it definitely felt to me like a mix of Japan and the US wrapped up into one. The city was clean, the public transit was convenient (and on time), there was food everywhere (both restaurants and street food), and each little neighborhood we visited had an entirely unique and different feel. Compared to Tokyo, the city felt less busy and less congested; yet, it still had a vibrancy and energy about it. I found the people to be a bit more outwardly expressive than in Japan (but perhaps not quite as much as in the US). The clothing styles were brighter and more unique, the people in general were louder and less reserved, and there was a slightly (and I mean slightly) more chaotic feel to the city. I was expecting to see a lot more foreigners, but there seemed to be way less than in Tokyo or other major Japanese cities. This might have been due to recent world events however - and the fact that we were visiting during a non-peak travel time. On many occasions, groups of kids yelled 'hello' to me and several complimented me ("You pretty") and even asked for my autograph! Talk about a self-esteem boost! :) Despite there being less foreigners, there was WAY more English - people were more willing to speak it (when necessary) and most places had signs and menus in English (which made getting around and understanding much easier for me - even though Kaz surprised himself with how much his Korean language skills came back to him...I don't know how he does it?!).
I think I was also expecting there to be more signs of the current situation in North Korea...and there really weren't any. Life in Seoul seemed normal...to say the least. One of our tour guides commented on the fact that we were all brave to come to South Korea to visit - given how Korea must look to the rest of the world. And yet, he mentioned that daily life for everyone in South Korea hasn't really changed. The thought and possibility of a potential attack is simply part of their daily life. Little reminders like 'shelter' signs on the subways (which are built much deeper in the ground - so they can also act as bomb shelters) and cabinets housing gas masks interspersed among the vending machines were really the only indications of a potential situation (if you didn't watch the news or weren't aware of current events).
I was also surprised that on many occasions, Korea's dislike of Japan was mentioned. I mean - in most cases it was in the context of talking about past wars and invasions...but at times it felt a bit 'in your face.' For example, when we were riding the train from the airport to our hotel - there was a video playing about an island that Korea and Japan both believe belongs to them. The video made statements about Japan lying, etc. and the directness surprised me a bit. As I write this, I realize that the US news is filled with comments like this about various countries - so it's really not that rare; however, perhaps my time in Japan (where people may have these types of views but not state them openly) has 'reverse jaded' me a bit.
Our trip can be divided into three main parts - exploring the historical sites; exploring the food and city life; and, our tour to the border area of North and South Korea. Definitely three very different types of activities in just three short days; however, I feel like this variety really helped us to 'get a good feel' of Seoul!
Exploring the Historical Sites of Seoul
Most of our day on Friday was spent exploring the Royal Palaces of Seoul. There are four main palaces - Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changgyeonggung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace and the Secret Garden, and Deoksugung Palace. And, one Royal Shrine - Jongmyo Shrine.
Changdeokgung Palace is probably the most popular of the palaces as it is relatively well-persevered and is representative of Korean palace architecture. Additionally, the Secret Garden of Changdeokgung is said to be one of the most attractive places in Korea and the complex was named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Secret Garden reminded me of Meiji Jingu in Tokyo in that as you are walking through the beautiful greenery - you completely forget that a major metropolitan city is bustling outside the walls!
Jongmyo Shrine houses the spirit tablets of the Joseon Dynasty (the last dynasty in Korea) kings and queens and is the venue for ritual ceremonies to them. The two buildings are quite long and narrow - and each room is said to hold a tablet for a specific person or family.
Here's some pictures of the palaces, garden, and shrine. You'll notice that while aspects of the architecture seem to have a Japanese influence, the palaces are much more colorful like they tend to be in China. Korea really does seem to be a mesh of Japanese and Chinese influences.
While we were researching our trip to Seoul, I'd read that one of the top recommended things to do was to take a tour of the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) or JSA (Joint Security Area) to learn more about the historical and current conflicts with North Korea. Kaz and I went back and forth about the idea - especially given recent events. However, in the end - our curiosity and desire to develop a better understanding of global issues won out. Plus, we knew we could cancel our tour if we changed our minds.
Before I talk about our experiences, here's a bit more information about the DMZ and JSA. To be honest, I didn't know much about either before we visited. The DMZ is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula that serves as a buffer zone between the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea) and the Republic of Korea (South Korea). It was created by an agreement between North Korea, China, and the United Nations in 1953 and is 160 miles long and 2.5 miles wide. Housed within the DMZ is the JSA - a meeting point between the two nations housed in a small area near the western end of the zone. The JSA is where negotiations take place between the two countries. Hopefully this helps explain things just a bit.
On Saturday morning, we boarded a bus with about 50 other tourists from all over the world and headed to the JSA. Our bus drove on a highway that at many points seemed to 'hug' the boarder between North and South Korea. And, for long stretches of time, barbed wire fences with security huts lined the roads. There were also several moments in which we were able to look at North Korea in the distance - its sparse landscape looking markedly different from the skyscraper-dotted skyline of Seoul.
Our first stop was at a park (Imjingak Resort), which marked the most northern point that people could travel to without needing additional approval. Imjingak was built in 1972 to console those who are unable to return to their hometowns/families in North Korea; and, with the hope that someday unification will be possible. I'm not sure why I thought that South Korea's view of North Korea would be negative - but it definitely wasn't. Sure, they don't agree with the leader or current situation, but the overall desire is definitely to be unified as one country. One of the most emotional aspects of this park was the barbed wire fences covered with ribbons containing wishes from South Koreans to North Koreans. It's such a stark contrast of hope and war occurring simultaneously.
Imjingak also contains The Freedom Bridge. In 1953, after the Korean War, more than 12,700 prisoners of war returned to South Korea (the land of freedom) over the bridge. The bridge still connects North and South Korea; however, a wall has been built to separate the two nations. Visitors can walk up to the wall, which is covered with messages for Korean Unification.
After visiting Imjingak, we boarded the buses and headed north. At this point, we had to pass through many security checkpoints before we were allowed to go any further. There were military personnel everywhere, barricades covering the roads that the buses had to weave in and out of, and a military member came onto the bus at many points to check our passports. We were also strictly prohibited from taking pictures unless in very specific areas. Our guide told us that in South Korea, every male must serve a minimum of 21 months in the military. Many will serve right out of high school, while others may start college and then choose to serve their term. In North Korea, military service comes with a 10-year minimum commitment!
Next, we stopped at Camp Bonifas for a short briefing and to transfer to JSA-approved tour buses (for obvious security reasons). Camp Bonifas is home to the United Nations Command Security Battalion - Joint Security Area, whose primary mission is to monitor and enforce the Korean Armistice Agreement of 1953 between North and South Korea. I've never been on a military base, but this area felt like what I imagine a small portion of a base might feel like. There was an office building (equipped with a gift shop - which felt odd to me), a church, some athletic fields, and some residences that we could see...most of the other buildings were off in the distance a bit. There were also a strong US military presence and we learned that both South Korean and United States Forces Korea soldiers (known as "security escorts") conducted tours of the JSA and surrounding areas. |
| Our permission slip |
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| Pic taken from North Korea |
After taking a few pictures, we were lead into the conference room. The building is shared by both countries and half of the room is in North Korea and the other half is in South Korea. A large table marks the center of the room and when meetings occur - members sit on their respective sides of the table (and country). Within the conference room, we were allowed to walk around - which gave us the opportunity to say that we actually 'set foot' in North Korea. We were also allowed to take pictures with the military members (all South Korean). You'll notice that they all wear sunglasses. This is to prevent the two sides from having 'eye wars' and also decreases the amount of human connection that occurs between the North Korean and South Korean soldiers as they spend a lot of time looking over the boarder at each other. After about two minutes in the conference room, we boarded the buses, and headed back to Seoul (via a quick stop at Camp Bonifas and lunch outside the walls of the JSA and DMZ zones).
Our tour was also supposed to include a stop at the Bridge of No Return, which is where prisoners of war were given the choice to either remain in the country of their captivity or cross the bridge to return to their homeland (North Korea). However, just days before our tour - it was discovered that North Korea had built landmines in the areas surrounding the bridge (needless to say - the bridge is no longer part of any tour).
While there were obviously many risks associated with this tour, and I was rather nervous in general, I have to say that at no time did I feel unsafe. Sure, a part of that was probably innocence, ignorance, or whatever you want to call it...and, at the same time...everyone understood the seriousness of the situation and was prepared to act if needed. Even to the point that we were required to wear closed-toe shoes in case we had to run. In light of the recent incident in Las Vegas (less than a week after this trip), I've been thinking a lot about the concept of safety. So many people have said to me - 'I can't believe you went to Korea' or 'That was risky.' And, while I clearly see their points...I can't help but wonder...is it better to be in place with safety concerns at hand (and protective measures in place) or a place where something like a shooting can break out at any moment with no warning? Lately, the later seems almost scarier to me.
Since I don't want to end my post on a heavy note, I'll end with a summary of our food and city adventures! :)
Food and City Stuff
In addition to the historical sites, Seoul is also known for food and shopping. And boy, are there a lot of both! Throughout our time in Seoul, we explored more neighborhoods than I can count - each with its own vibe and personality. Myeong-dong is known for its cosmetics and street food; Insa-dong is known for its traditional goods; and, Gangnam is known for its high-end department stores (and the dance!). We also visited Common Ground, which is a pop-up area made out of shipping containers. This was one of my favorite places! While I'm not the biggest shopper in the world, I did enjoy browsing the shops - especially Lotte Mart - a huge grocery store with lots of free samples! I may have stocked up on seaweed, tea, instant coffee, and lots of snacks! :)
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