Travel Entry - Hokkaido: Japan's Far North

A few weekends ago, we headed to Japan's northernmost island of Hokkaido. Hokkaido is known for its volcanoes, natural hot springs, and ski areas. Hokkaido is actually relatively close to Russia (you might actually be able to see Russia from your house) and so the winters are quite harsh with lots of snow and the summers are much cooler and less humid. 

Hokkaido was originally inhabited by Ainu (aborigines of an uncertain ancestry). And, until 1800 the number of Ainu outnumbered the number of Japanese in Hokkaido. Currently, there are about 16,000 Ainu remaining in Hokkaido. In 1868, Japan began major efforts to populate the island in order to strengthen the northern frontier. In the early 1870s, an American agriculturalist was sent to Hokkaido to introduce scientific methods of farming. Farming, and the growth of railroads, helped to populate Hokkaido; however, parts of the island (especially the northern most areas) are still relatively underpopulated. 

Because we only had two full days to explore, we focused this trip's travel on the capital city of Sapporo (and its surrounding areas). Plus, we had chosen this weekend to visit because it coincided with the Sapporo Snow Festival...which was on every "must do" list I'd looked at. So on Friday afternoon, we took a quick two-hour flight (with our friends - the Bauers') and were in Sapporo just in time for dinner! 

I am quickly learning that Japan loves food! Okay, I already knew that. However, I've never visited a place in which there is so much pride in local cuisine. Cities and towns LOVE to showcase their cuisine - and give visitors numerous opportunities to sample the yumminess! Hokkaido, as a whole, is famous for ramen, crab, uni and ikura donburi (sea urchin and salmon roe over rice), curry soup, "Genghis Khan," soba noodles, ice cream, melon, and Sapporo beer...of course! 

On Friday night, we set out to fill our tummies with miso ramen. I had read that Sapporo includes corn in their ramen and sometimes puts a pat of butter on top of the noodles as well. You know, the whole cold weather = fattier food concept! Sapporo's "Ramen Alley" has hundreds of little ramen shops...one after another. Visitors simply walk down the alleys and pick a place that looks good to them. We decided rather quickly as we were quite hungry. Although the shop was small and looked a bit grimy (I've learned that this is a sign of an amazing restaurant in Japan) - the ramen and beer was delicious!! 

On Saturday morning, we headed downtown to explore the snow festival. The Sapporo Snow Festival began in 1950, when local middle and high school students exhibited six snow sculptures at Odori Park. Today, it has become one of the most popular winter-time activities in Japan and attracts over two million visitors every year. The snow festival has three main areas: Odori Park, which featured the snow sculptures and an insane amount of food vendors; Susukino, which featured the ice sculptures; and Tsudome, which featured lots of "fun in the snow" activities. 

I could not believe how HUGE the snow sculptures were. In one of the pictures below, you can see a person standing on the stage...which should give you a better understanding of the enormity of these sculptures. In addition to the main sculptures, there were some smaller ones as well. It seemed like this year's "theme" was the "Pineapple Apple Pen" man  - as there were so many sculptures of him. He's a Japanese sensation - no clue why! Look him up on YouTube if you have no idea what I am talking about! Each night, the main sculptures were lit up with lights...and some even had choreographed light shows. 

And, here's just a few pics of the food vendors! Kaz was thrilled to enjoy his uni and ikura donburi...I went for the grilled corn (which was of course served in a bag to lessen the chance of making a huge mess!). 

After a few hours at the snow festival (which is all I think you need, if you are thinking of visiting in the future), we headed over to the Tsudome to check out the snow activities. I'll have to admit that it was quite underwhelming...however, we did take a ride on a raft pulled by a snowmobile and slide down an ice slide most likely designed only for kids. I actually got stuck and had to push myself most of the way down!

We ended our action-packed day at the Sapporo Beer Museum, which is interestingly the only beer museum in Japan. Guided tours are unfortunately offered only in Japanese; however, the exhibits come with written English translations. And, after you spend time wandering around...you can enjoy snacks and tastings in the warm and cozy tasting room! 

The next morning, Kaz and I took a 45-minute train ride to Otaru. Otaru is a small town that served as a major trade and fishing port in the late 1800s. A canal runs through the center of the town and is lined with warehouses (which have been converted into shops and restaurants). 

We had read about a cable car that takes visitors to the top of Mt. Tengu...and provides a wonderful view of the bay. So, we thought we'd give it a try. The cable car was actually a ski lift at a rather small ski resort; however, there was lots of snow at the top (which helped me to really feel like I was in Hokkaido) and we even stumbled across a ski museum. I learned that Otaru is actually credited as the "origin of skiing in Japan." 

After our "mountain adventure," we strolled along the canal. It's funny, in Otaru especially, I really didn't feel like I was in Japan. There was a ton of snow and very few people...it almost felt like a small "up north" Michigan town. Until...several people dressed like anime characters walked past us...and I was reminded that I was indeed in Japan! As we explored Otaru's main street, we stumbled upon The Otaru Beer Company, which is actually a small brewery that makes you feel like you are in Germany. I haven't been to Germany, but the decor looks German, the staff was dressed in lederhosen, and they served German food. We learned that a business man from Otaru went to Germany specifically looking for a brewer to come back to Otaru and open a brewery! He was successful and there are currently two Germans in this small town!  

The last stop on our Hokkaido tour was to visit the Nikka Whisky Distillery in Yoichi (about a 40-minute bus ride from Otaru). Nikka Whisky is one of the most popular whiskies in Japan. Masataka Taketsuru - the founder and the "Father of Japanese Whisky" - learned the art of whisky in Scotland. Interestingly, he met his wife there - and she moved back to Japan with him. He even designed their house to look more Western, so that his wife felt more at home in Japan. We took a short tour of the distillery - the grounds were absolutely beautiful - and then enjoyed some tastings. I am not a whisky fan, but I did really enjoy their apple wine! :) 

After the distillery, we headed back to Sapporo to finish up our trip with some more food - and impromptu sledding! I really enjoyed the little bit of Hokkaido that we were able to explore this weekend. I really hope that we'll be able to squeeze in another trip to Hokkaido before we leave Japan - so that we'll be able to explore some of the "untouched" areas!

Heating in Japan: Everyday Differences - Take 1!

Our "big" snowfall!

Whew - it's been a long blogging break! This winter season has gotten away from me a bit! 

Although, it's quite a bit delayed... here is my "January in Review" post. Instead of summarizing each month for Year Two, I've decided, instead, that it might be fun to pick things in my daily life that are different than back home and tell you all about them. 

So - this month's topic is...Heating! Quite appropriate for January, don't you think?! 

Before moving to Japan, I was told that the weather in Nagoya is a lot like that of North Carolina. The winters are milder; the summers are hotter. And, the humidity is the worse than one can imagine. The thought of milder winters made me happy...longer outdoor running seasons, less bundling up, etc. Or so I thought! Surprisingly, I am actually colder in Japan on a daily basis than I was in America. It's not because the actual weather temperatures are colder; instead, it's because heating (and the way it's used) in Japan is much different. 

Here's a few of the differences...

~*So Many Doors*~

The door to our living room and kitchen

When Kaz and I were looking at apartments in Japan, I remember thinking that they had so many doors. Not only were there doors to the bedrooms and bathrooms...there were also doors to the kitchen and living room. I soon came to realize that this is because most Japanese homes do not have central heating - so families buy heaters for individual rooms. We have a heater in our bedroom, one in our guest room, and then one in our living room that also heats our kitchen (when the door is closed). This means that our bathroom and hallways don't have any heat. It's not that big of a deal; however, it does decrease your motivation to go into other rooms knowing that they are much, much colder. Our heater also "tells" us when we have used more electricity than the day before - and when the temperature outside is warmer than inside...both cues to turn the heater off. I was definitely freaked out the first time this happened - and a woman's voice filled my living room! 

Traditional Japanese houses also have little to no insulation and can be quite drafty. The doors and windows open easily in the summer to cool the house; however, they do very little to keep the house warm in the winter. I've also learned that heated toilet seats in Japan are not just for show and the user's enjoyment. Once you've been in a non-heated bathroom in the middle of winter...those heated toilet seats make even more sense and become less of a luxury and more of a necessity! 

~*The Kotatsu*~

Our kotatsu 

Before coming to Japan, I had no idea what a kotatsu was...and now, having used one...I can confidently say that we will not be returning to the US without bringing one with us! In fact, our kotatsu was the first piece of furniture we bought once we arrived in Japan. 

The kotatsu has actually existed in Japan since the early 14th century. It began as a Japanese cooking hearth (called an irori), which used charcoal to cook food and heat the house. The modern-day kotatsu consists of a table with an electric heater attached to the underside. The kotatsu is usually set on a thin futon with a second and thicker futon placed over the kotatsu table. Then, a tabletop is placed over the table. This is actually really useful because in the warmer months - you simply remove the thicker futon and your kotatsu looks no different than a coffee table. The heater then heats the air under the table - and individuals sit with their legs under the table and the blanket covering much of their body. 

By sitting under the kotatsu, you can warm yourself up in minutes. There is even a dial that allows you to control the intensity of the heat. If I am going to sit under the kotatsu, I try to have everything that I need with me...because it is so hard to get out and expose yourself to the cold air! Many Japanese families even turn off their room heaters when they are sitting under the kotatsu. I'll be honest...I probably keep both heaters on more often than not! 

Irori

Modern-Day 

~*Walking*~ 

http://kathyzhao2011.blogspot.jp

Even though public transportation is wonderful here - I still walk A LOT! And, while I enjoy the exercise and time outside...there are days when I am actually "chilled to the bone." I don't miss having to scrape my car off in the morning; however, there are definitely days in which jumping into the car and blasting the heater sounds inviting...even just for a moment! 

Another thing I've found quite strange about winter in Japan is that more children seem to wear shorts and skirts than they do in the summer. On a daily basis, I will see students with jackets, gloves, hats, scarves, and...shorts! I don't know how they are not absolutely freezing! In fact, usually they look frozen...and I often have the urge to ask them if they are cold!

~*Vending Machines*~ 

Vending machine in the winter

In a previous blog post, I wrote about the amazingness that is the Japanese vending machine. They are everywhere - and can carry the most random assortment of items. Vending machines carrying drinks are those most common and during the winter months (from late September to early May), most vending machines carry hot drinks. Hot teas, hot coffees, hot cocoa, and even hot lemonade with honey (a personal favorite of mine). The labels under the hot drinks are red and the labels under the cold drinks are blue...which is logical and doesn't require one to read or understand Japanese. You put your money in, push the button, and out comes your drink in a hot metal can or plastic bottle. The metal cans are sometimes so hot that you have you hold them with your sleeve! 

After a long walk to the subway station or time outside, a warm drink always tastes good. And the fact that you can get one in less than a minute or two is wonderful!! 

~*Blankets in restaurants*~ 

In almost every restaurant and cafe you visit in Japan - you will see a pile of fleece blankets folded neatly in the corner. These can be used by any customer at any time if they are too cold. And, sometimes, an employee will even bring one to you. Kaz and I were sitting outside at a wine shop last year in mid-November and I put his coat on my lap because I was getting a bit chilly. Not even a minute later, an employee from inside the shop came out and offered me a blanket! The customer service here is amazing - they don't miss a thing! 

On that note, I hope you are all staying warm this winter...and enjoying the amazing wonder that is central heating! :)