Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Travel Entry - Kaz's Birthday Weekend in Takayama

For Kaz's birthday weekend, we took an overnight trip to the city of Takayama. Takayama is located in the Hida region of Gifu Prefecture (about a two-hour train ride from Nagoya). The city is nestled in the heart of the Japanese Alps and retains a traditional touch (unlike most other Japanese cities). Much of the town has been preserved, which allows guests to experience what a rural Japanese town may have been like long ago. 

Views from the train...
Views from the train...
We started out our trip with a very scenic train ride that wound us up into the mountains. The sun was shining and it was so neat to be able to relax and take in the beauty. Public transit in Japan is wonderful! 

Once we arrived in Takayama, we decided to take a walk through Shiroyama Park. The weather was beautiful and we were able to explore the ruins of Takayama Castle. It was quite a steep climb with lots of stairs as we made our way to about 2,200 feet above sea level. Construction began on the castle in 1588 and it was completed in 1600. The castle was demolished in 1695 - though nothing I have read has been able to give me a clear reason as to why or how the castle was demolished. 

View from the top
Standing in the main room of the castle
About to climb the front steps of the castle
Panoramic Shot!  
Brown sugidama - sake is ready! 
After walking through the park, we made our way into Old Town - which is the part of Takayama that has been preserved. The streets are lined with shops, restaurants, and sake breweries. Sugidama, which are special balls made of cedar branches, hang over the entrances of the sake breweries (so you can identify them quickly). The color of the sugidama is also an indication of how the sake is maturing - a green sugidama indicates that the sake has just been pressed and a brown sugidama indicates that the sake has matured and is ready to be consumed. All the breweries we passed had brown sugidama! 

Kaz with his sake! 
We couldn't walk past all the sake breweries without doing a tasting. I've only had sake once in my life - and that was when it was mixed with a very sugary juice...so I couldn't even taste it. The breweries had a wide selection of sakes - and you could taste whichever ones you liked for 100-200JPY (about $1-$2). Kaz tried more "traditional" flavors of sake - while I tried the more "fruity" flavors (plum and yuzu - a Japanese lemon-like fruit). While my tastings were served in small glasses - Kaz's tastings were served in a more traditional way...in a wooden box (called a masu - which used to be a measuring cup). The masu is placed on a small saucer and then the sake is poured into it - until it overflows just a little bit onto the saucer. I was intrigued as to why the server allowed the sake to overflow (since it made a bit of a mess). Kaz told me that sake is served that way so that people don't feel like they are being cheated out of "not getting a full serving" of sake. 

Yummy lunch! 
With our bellies full of sake, we decided that lunch was needed before more sightseeing. Like most areas in Japan, Takayama is known for its local foods. Some of them include sansai (mountain vegetables - usually pickled); soba; miso; and, Hida-gyu (Hida-beef). We enjoyed a delicious lunch of cold soba noodles (buckwheat noodles) and vegetable tempura (lightly-fried vegetables in a crispy panko batter) before heading across town to explore Takayama Jinya. 
Hida-gyu Sushi (lightly seared beef over rice)


The streets of Old Town
The entrance of Takayama Jinya
Takayama Jinya is a historic government house that was built by the central government in the 17th century. It is actually the only remaining office of its kind in all of Japan and was really neat to walk through. I was excited that many of the signs were in English - so I was able to read a bit more about the building's history. Each of the rooms had an interesting story and I would recommend a visit if you are ever in the area. On the day that we visited, there were craftsman giving a demonstration and I was able to try my hand at "shaving wood" using a Japanese plane tool. Interestingly, this eliminates the need for sandpaper as it leaves the wood very smooth! 
Attempting to shave wood
Inside Takayama Jinya
Onsen! 
After exploring Takayama Jinya, we headed back to our ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) to enjoy soaking in the onsens. We were lucky enough to have our own private onsen in our room that overlooked the town below. I still haven't experienced the public onsens yet - though I need to just muster up the courage and take that plunge soon! Compared to our ryokan experience in February - we were able to figure out the yukata "putting on" process in about half the time (which was still about twenty minutes). Our server at dinner even commented that I looked "kawaii" (cute) in my yukata. Our meal was delicious - and there were only a few items that looked too questionable for me to eat. I was proud of myself for trying roe (fish eggs), raw shrimp (never again), and eel (okay in small quantities and when mixed with rice). The fish on a stick and mini-crab (which still looked like a crab) were too much! The neat thing about the meals at ryokans is that they specialize in serving food unique to that area - so we had amazing beef, miso, and milk! 




Morning Market 
Blessing...
The next morning, we enjoyed breakfast (again featuring local foods) before heading out to enjoy the morning markets. Every morning two farmer's markets are held in Takayama - one along the Miya River and the other in front of Takayama Jinya. We found that the one along the river was much bigger and featured free samples of many local Japanese foods and snacks. There were also many craftsmen selling beautiful wood pieces - as Takayama is known for their carpentry. As we were walking, I was able to see a Shinto priest perform a traditional blessing on food offerings at a small shrine. It was really neat!

We spent our afternoon at the Hida Folk Museum (Minzoku-kan), which is an outdoor museum that displays traditional architecture and thatched roof houses (many of which have been relocated from the UNESCO World Heritage Site - Shirakawa-go). When you first walk in, there is a street full of old Japanese games and toys that you can try our for yourself. We were pretty good at the bamboo water guns - but not so good at the bamboo stilts! Then, following the numbers on the map - you can walk from site to site...and spend as much time as you want enjoying them. It took us about 80 minutes to see all of the sites - but the map had shortened courses that took you to the highlighted sites only, if you were short on time. 



YUM!
From there we headed back to the train station to start our trip home...however, not without making sure we grabbed a gyu-man (beef-filled steamed bun) before we left!

Takayama was a really fun place to visit - and I think it will become one of the "must-visit" places on our lists of places to recommend to visitors. Next time, we will try to plan our visit during the Takayama Festival, which is held every spring and fall, and features intricately-crafted floats said to be a testament to the region’s history (of artistry and craftsmanship). 

Side note... :)

While in Takayama - we saw these "red dolls" EVERYWHERE! I was curious what they were - so we looked them up (before buying a few as souvenirs).  The dolls are called "sarubobos" - which literally means 'baby monkey' in Japanese. Traditionally, sarubobos are made by grandmothers for their grandchildren as dolls, and for their daughters as a charm for good marriage, good children and to ensure a well-rounded couple. The dolls do not have any facial features because they are said to "take on" the emotion that their owner is feeling at any given time. Over time, many other color sarubobos have emerged - each color having their own meaning. (Red: marriage and family; Gold/Yellow: money, success, gambling; Pink: love; Orange: friendship, children, traveling; Blue: study and job; Green: peace and health; Purple: longevity and success; Black: protection from evil).

Sunny Moments: A relaxing and rejuvenating weekend in a quaint town - with beautiful weather! 
Cloudy Moments: None! Except for maybe the fish on a stick and baby crab! ;)

Monday, May 23, 2016

Travel Entry - Singapore



From Hong Kong - we headed to Singapore where we met up with Kaz's parents - and spent the next six days exploring.

Singapore is on the equator - so it's quite hot and humid (very tropical). The weather was sunny for most of the trip with some occasional pop-up storms that would last for an hour at most. 
Like Hong Kong, I knew rather little about Singapore before arriving - other than it is said to be the only country in the world that is safer than Japan. I also had heard that Singapore has very strict laws - but truthfully wasn't too sure what that meant. When reading our guidebook - I was shocked to learn that it is still legal to "cane people" as punishment in Singapore. And, possession of any type of drug (even marijuana) can warrant the death penalty. We were also warned about "little" crimes (like littering, chewing gum, and jaywalking) that were punishable by rather steep fines. 

"Parking Lot" for the Ships
I found that Singapore's history was similar to Hong Kong's in that it was initially a British Colony. In 1963, Singapore merged with the Federation of Malaya to form Malaysia. Then, due to social unrest and disputes, Singapore separated from Malaysia in 1965 and became an independent republic. Singapore is very proud of their diversity. In fact, they have four national languages (English, Mandarin, Malay, and Tamil) which represent the four major ethnic groups in Singapore. Interestingly, Singapore has a bilingual education policy in which students are taught English as their first language and then are taught a second language (Mandarin, Malay, or Tamil) as their "mother tongue." (I learned most of this when we visited the National Museum of Singapore - very interesting and informative museum). Singapore is also the epicenter of trade as the Port of Singapore is one of the busiest ports in the world. Whenever I looked at the water - I couldn't help but think it resembled a parking lot of ships...all lined up and waiting to get into the port.

Singapore was easy to navigate - with everything marked in - and almost everyone speaking - English. Everything was very safe, very clean...and had a slightly artificial feel. In general, people seemed a tad rude and slightly artificial. It almost seemed as though they recognized the opportunities they had by living in Singapore and yet they felt a degree of social pressure to conform to the rules and regulations. Singapore was an amazing place to visit...I just wonder if living there would begin to feel a tad "Big Brother-ish" over time.  

Due to the length of our trip - instead of taking you step-by-step through everything that we did - I will highlight (possibly lengthily and with lots of pictures) the top sites that we visited. :)

Singapore Botanical Gardens: The Singapore Botanical Gardens were probably some of the best gardens that I've ever seen - and they took about almost a half day to wander through. The highlight was definitely the Orchid Garden, which had orchids of every shape, size, and color. We also saw a fair share of little lizards scurrying across the path.






Cloud Forest Waterfall
Walkways in Cloud Forest
Gardens by the Bay: By day two, we quickly realized just how much Singapore LOVES their flowers and gardens. And, just how creative they are with them. Gardens by the Bay is a huge outdoor garden - similar to the botanical gardens. However, with some VERY interesting added features. Garden by the Bay has two domes, which are basically indoor gardens that can be visited at any time. The first dome is known as Cloud Forest and contains gardens and a waterfall that extend stories into the air. You actually get to take an elevator to the top of the dome and walk along a path all the way back to the bottom. The next dome is known as the Flower Dome and it contains many indoor gardens from all over the world. I believe that the feature gardens change regularly - they were full of colorful tulips when we visited! 
Flower Dome - Tulips!
Pano-View
Outside, in the center of the gardens are these very futuristic-looking trees (called the Supertree Grove). We learned that they are actually very "green" and harvest solar energy. You can also take an elevator up one of the trees and walk on a walkway that gives you AMAZING views of the city! 





Marina Bay Sands: Marina Bay Sands is a hotel and casino in Singapore. It contains tons of shops and restaurants that provide some relief from the Singapore heat. The building is very unique and looks sort of like a slice of a cruise ship balancing on three tiers. The very top "deck" of the building allows for a panoramic view of Singapore.






Merlion: All of the brochures, signs, and advertisements that we saw for Singapore contained pictures of a mythical-looking creature whose face resembled that of a lion. We soon learned that the creature was called a Merlion (and there were actually seven large Merlions distributed all around Singapore for visitors to find). On our river cruise, we learned that the Merlion has a head of a lion and the body of a fish. And, it is used widely as the national personification and mascot of Singapore. 

The fish body represents Singapore's origin as a fishing village (Temasek, which means "sea town" in Japanese) and the lion head represents Singapore's original name (Singapura, which means "lion city"). We visited the main Merlion which looks over the Harbor - and two others that we just so happened to stumble upon! 


Exploring Neighborhoods (Arab Street, Little India, and Chinatown): Singapore has many neighborhoods that give you a feel of "old Singapore" (even though you can see the skyscrapers peeking though). They each have their own unique feel and culture. Arab Street has many middle-eastern shops and restaurants; and, the Sultan Mosque (which is beautiful). Little India also has a lot of shops and restaurants - and smells of Indian foods and fragrances. Chinatown in much bigger and contains shops, restaurants, street markets, Sri Mariamman Temple, and the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. 
Little India
Textiles on Arab Street 
Sultan Mosque
Inside the Temple
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 
Market in Chinatown
Lizard on a stick...YIKES!
Interestingness...
Hawker Centers: There are many Hawker Centers in Singapore and we visited/ate at one of the most popular Hawker Centers in Chinatown. Hawkers Centers resembled food courts (slightly) in that they contain many food vendors in one place. And, the food is CHEAP! They also have a rather dirty feel in that you do question whether it's safe to eat the food you are being given. 

Hawkers Centers started in Singapore as a way for the government to control unhygienic food preparation that was taking place by unlicensed street hawkers...by putting the food all in one place. They also implemented licensing requirements, where a sufficient standard of hygiene is required for the stall to operate. 

The Hawker Center was very hot and smelled like a mixture of hundreds of different kinds of food. I have to say that I was initially hesitant to try any food - but I thoroughly enjoyed an amazing fruit smoothie, some dumplings (not entirely sure of the types), and Singapore's famous chicken rice (which Anthony Bourdain raved about). 

The Southern Ridges, Henderson Waves & Mt. Faber: Despite the heat, we took a few short hikes to explore the rainforest-like vegetation of Singapore. Just like in Hong Kong, these areas of vegetation were nestled right in the city-landscape. The Southern Ridges are composed of several parks connected by trails/walkways. Within the Southern Ridges are the Henderson Waves, which is a bridge that connects to hilltops (about 36 meters in the air). The "waves" are really neat - and look almost like a sculpture/art exhibit in the sky. Mt. Faber Park gave us a neat lookout over the city and also allowed us to very loudly ring the Bell of Happiness (which sends wishes of happiness to family and friends everywhere). 




Bukit Timah Nature Preserve: The highlight of this hike, in addition to feeling like we were movie stars in either Jurassic Park or The Hunger Games, was our random encounter with monkeys! Throughout our entire trip, we had seen signs warning us about the presence of monkeys - but had never seen any. About five minutes into our hike, I was startled by a tree branch that swung into the path in front of me and the monkey who was swinging on it. About twenty monkeys followed and we were able to watch them for about five minutes before they disappeared. We figured that we'd see tons of monkeys the rest of our hike; however, we never did see anymore.

Clarke Quay: Clarke Quay is a historical riverside quay that lines the Singapore River. One side is full of restaurant of all kinds and the other is a tree-lined path that allows you to take in the views. We ate at a seafood restaurant near the quay and tried Singapore's famous chili crab - it was spicy and definitely required the bib they insisted we wore as we ate!





Sentosa Island: There are many islands that surround Singapore and are accessible by boat. The most popular one (which is actually accessible by car, train, or boat) is called Sentosa Island. The island contains Universal Studios - Singapore and many other kid-friendly attractions. It seemed a bit like an amateur (and poorly executed) Disney World...definitely more geared towards young children. We explored the island a bit and were able to stand on the Southernmost point in Continental Asia. 

Singapore was definitely a fun place to visit - and I would recommend visiting if you ever get a chance. While we originally wondered whether there would be enough to do to fill six days - we found that our days were comfortably full and there was still much we didn't explore. 

Sunny Moments: Exploring a new place; SO many neat gardens; lots of sunshine; NATURE!; time with family.

Cloudy Moments: Kaz's lost cell phone (though it was returned!)