Friday, January 6, 2017

Travel Entry - My First Trip to a "Developing Country"

One of things that I feel most fortunate about when it comes to living in Japan is the opportunities that I have to travel to so many neat places. I fully recognize that the amount I am traveling over these two years is "not typical" and truly is a once in a lifetime experience. I hope to continue traveling once we return home; however, a trip a year will probably be much more realistic at that point! 

Before moving to Japan, the United States, Canada, and New Zealand were the only places on my "countries visited" list. All modern, English-speaking, highly-developed countries in which day-to-day life was not was too different than I was used to. In the past year, I've added Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Taiwan to my list. Again, all highly-developed countries that felt a bit different - mainly due to language differences. Hong Kong, Singapore, and Taiwan all "graduated" to developed country status in the late 1990s. As I was writing this blogpost - I first started using the terms "first world" and "third world" - however, a bit of research revealed that the current terms being used are "developed country" versus"developing country."

New Year's break gave Kaz about ten days off work - so we decided to spend that time traveling to Australia. Firstly, because it was a county that's been on my list for a long time. And secondly, because December/January are right in the middle of Australia's summer! And a break from the cold weather is always a welcome one! As we were looking into the best ways to travel to Australia - we decided that a two-day trip to Bali would be an easy and neat way to break up the travel from Japan. 

I must admit that I am not the most geographically-talented or worldly person...so what I knew about Bali was basically from the pictures I had seen online...sandy beaches, bright blue oceans, and the like. As I began to research further, I realized that while some of Bali is known for its beaches - most of the island is actually rainforest. And, since we only had a short time in Bali - and we would be getting some beach time in Australia - we decided that the rainforest would be our area of focus on this trip. So, to Ubud we went.

Bali is an island and province of Indonesia and has seen a significant rise in tourism since the 1980s. For those of you who have seen or read - Eat, Pray, Love - Bali is one of the places that is featured. The island of Bali has a population of just over 4 million people and is home to Indonesia's Hindu minority. In fact, over 80% of Balinese residents practice Balinese Hinduism. In Bali, the main language spoken is Indonesian though many people speak Balinese. English is also spoken - especially with the recent rise in tourism.

Our trip to Bali was a bit more eventful than I had hoped. During the last part of the flight, I developed a migraine and spent the entire landing process with my head in a travel sickness bag. As we got off the plane - and were greeted with tropical temperatures and humidity - all I wanted to do was lay on a bench in the airport until I felt a bit better. Unfortunately, we had a driver waiting for us and had close to a 90-minute drive to our hotel. Bali has only one airport...so most tourists have to travel quite a distance to their accommodations. Our time in the airport and the extremely bumpy ride to the hotel are quite a blur - all I really remember is Kaz telling me to hold tight to my suitcases (because people will take them from you and then offer to drive you to your destination) and then explaining to our driver that I was tired and would be more talkative the next day (I didn't want to give him an inkling that I was trying my best not to get sick in his car). 

Our View
Our hotel was beautiful! I can really only explain it as a slice of paradise in the middle of the rainforest. From our window - we could see rainforest in all directions - and hear birds and other animals singing their rainforest tunes. Bali is known for its resorts, which are spectacular and also much cheaper than basic hotels in America and other parts of the world. Many people come to Bali simply to relax in the resorts - and don't get the opportunity to really explore Bali and the Balinese culture. Our hope was that we would get to explore Ubud as much as possible in our short time!  

The next morning - after a good night's sleep and plenty of Motrin...our driver, Ketut, picked us up for a day of sightseeing around Ubud. I've never had a driver before - however, getting a driver is the top recommendation made when researching Bali (and especially Ubud). This is because getting around can be rather chaotic and challenging and isn't recommended for tourists (especially those staying such a short time). We did read that many people rent scooters; however, after witnessing what scooter driving looked like in Ubud...I am beyond thankful that we did not pick that option. 

Ubud is a town made up of small farms, rice paddies, and dense forests. It has a population of about 30,000 people and is known as one of Bali's arts and cultural centers. While Ubud's tourism industry is increasing - it does not have a "resorty" feel like many of the other Bali towns. Ubud really had an undisturbed and authentic feel. 

Our Ketut-approved tour of Ubud and its surrounding areas included...

A traditional barong dance performance 
Barong is probably the most well-known dance in Bali. It is a storytelling dance that narrates the fight between good and evil.


A local Hindu Temple 
Instead of taking us to a super popular and touristy Hindu Temple - Ketut took us to a smaller and more local temple so that we could explore a bit more without the crowds. I was impressed with the ornateness of the temples - the stone carvings were breathtaking. When entering the temple, we had to wear a sarong (which is a colorful piece of fabric that covers your legs).  This is traditional temple-wear...though the men's looked a little different. 

I also learned that a small cage I saw was for bird fighting, which apparently is very popular in Bali...and is actually part of many Hindu ceremonies. Two birds are put in one cage and they fight until one bird is killed. I actually saw several children carrying dead roosters during our time there - as well as many people riding on their scooters while carrying bird cages!

To save this blog post from becoming too lengthy - I won't go into the specifics of Balinese Hinduism - but you can read more here if you are interested.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balinese_Hinduism) 

Offerings for the Temple
Birdfighting Cage

Tegenungan Waterfall
A beautiful waterfall in which many people hike to and swim. We didn't bring our swimsuits this time - but we did soak our feet in the ice cold water for a bit.


Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave)
Goa Gajah dates back to the 11th century and was believed to be built as a spiritual place for meditation. It contains elements of both Buddhism and Hinduism - and was discovered in the 1922. The facade of the cave is covered in many carvings with the main one being an elephant (just one theory regarding where the name of the temple came from). The bathing temple was added in the 1950s to ward off evil spirits. And, as you walk deeper into the temple, you discover huge broken boulders with carvings all over them. These are apparently the remains of some structures destroyed in a 1917 earthquake.



Tirta Empul Temple (also referred to as the Temple of Fresh/Clean Water by the locals)
The temple compound consists of a bathing structure, famous for its holy spring water. The temple pond has a spring that gives out fresh water regularly. Balinese Hindus visit the temple for ritual purification. In Bali, we were not able to drink the water (and had to rely solely on bottled water), so clean water is an extremely big deal. The bathing structures were full of people bathing in the water and drinking the water. Many people even brought jugs that they filled up with the holy (and clean) water. We didn't join in this time - but we enjoyed being able to take in all of the sites.


Santi Coffee Plantation 
After lunch, Ketut took us to a small coffee plantation. We were given a tour and were able to try many types of coffee and tea. Many had coconut sugar added to them - and other flavors like vanilla, chocolate, and even ginseng (all grown at the plantation as well). YUM! We also tried the "Bali-famous" Kopi Luwak coffee (which apparently is the most expensive coffee in the world; a cup sells for up to $100 in New York City). A cat-like animal known as a civet eats the coffee berry, but cannot digest the "stone" (aka - the coffee bean) - so that is excreted in the civet's poop. The poop is then collected and the coffee beans are harvested from the poop, washed, roasted, and then ground into coffee. Sounds gross, right?! What apparently makes the coffee so delicious is that the civets only eat the best coffee berries and then the whole digestion process makes the coffee less bitter. I have to say - the "poop coffee" was quite tasty - and we brought some home...so let me know if you want to give it a try! ;)

Tegalalang Rice Terraces
Our last stop on our whirlwind and action-packed tour of Ubud was the famous rice terraces. The rice paddies are located on a hill bank and showcase the traditional Balinese cooperative irrigation system known as subak (which was developed in the 9th century). They became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012 and are definitely worth a visit. Pictures don't do the enormity of the terraces even a bit of justice. 


Our second (and last) day in Bali was spent visiting the Ubud Market and taking a cooking class to learn a bit about Balinese cuisine. The morning brought heavy rains and so we slogged and squished through the market. I have to say that I was overwhelmed by the sites and smells - and had a hard time focusing on what our guide was saying about the foods and spices. I must also admit that I was a bit relieved that the food we used during our class had not come from the market. The mix of food, rain, bugs, and garbage had my stomach turning a bit. 


Our cooking instructor, Ketut, was super entertaining - and our class took place in an open-air kitchen overlooking the rainforest! We spent about five hours (as a group - there were 10 of us or so) learning to make many traditional Balinese dishes. We made three sauces - peanut sauce, bumbu bali (their base sauce), and sambal ulek (spicy sauce). Then we made ayam bumbu bali (balinese fried chicken in a curry sauce), pepes ikan (steamed fish in a banana leaf), chicken satay, balinese fried noodles, and chicken soup. We were able to enjoy them - and they were delicious! We were even given a copy of each of the recipes and I am excited to try them at home...especially the chicken satay and peanut sauce! :)


Overall, I have to say that I definitely enjoyed our trip to Bali. I'll admit that being in a developing country definitely helped me to recognize just how much I take for granted in my daily life. Some of the sites, moments, and experiences were surprising to me. Things like not being able to drink the water, ocean beaches covered in trash, unsanitary conditions in the market, etc. were a lot to take in. Especially when contrasted with the fancy and extravagant resorts. Sure, I know these type of things exist - and yet experiencing them firsthand is quite different and even more humbling. And, at the same time, the experience in Bali made me think more about all the "extras" I have in my life - and the idea of simplifying a bit so that I can focus even more of my time and energy on what really matters to me. 


If I had to pick one experience that sums up my two days in Bali - I would have to say that it was the traffic/driving experience. The roads were crowded - sometimes paved, sometimes not. There were cars everywhere and hundreds of scooters swerving in and out of traffic constantly. And yet - among this craziness and chaos...drivers were constantly waving people on, moving over to make room,  and kindly sounding their horns to give people the go-ahead or to let them know they were approaching. Another reminder that no matter where I go...kindness really is the universal language. 

Sunny Moments: Exploring a new place and culture; counting my blessings 
Cloudy Moments: Being sick on a plane 

Monday, December 5, 2016

Month 11 in Review

And like that...it's December. The end of Month 11 in Japan. It's crazy to think at this time last year, I had just left my job at CCHMC, we were packing up our belongings to ship to Japan, and we were gearing up for the holidays and lots of "see you laters" with family and friends. I know I say this just about every month and it still rings true...time is a funny thing...some days it seems like we've been in Japan way less than 11 months and other days it seems like we've been in Japan way more than 11 months. 

Month 11 brought with it Fall in Japan. And, it was beautiful!! People often ask me what the weather is like here...and it's not drastically different than the weather in the Midwest. The summer is hotter and way more humid (ok, that part did feel drastically different...and miserable), there are "rainy seasons," and Fall seems to begin and end about a month later. So instead of wondering whether we'd get snow flurries at the end of November, we were enjoying foliage. Which I have to admit feels a bit strange. 

In the past week, the wind has picked up big time, the temperatures have dropped, and the sun is now setting at 4:30pm (I'm not exaggerating either). My runs are beginning to require more and more layers of clothing, and I am finding myself having to work a bit harder to get out from under the blankets in the morning (or out from under the blankets at most times of the day...since most of you know that I tend to walk around the house wrapped in a blanket from sun up to sun down). Thanksgiving came and went...bringing with it a sense of "weirdness" as Kaz and I both worked and ate a regular meal. Keeping up with family and friends via phone, text, email, and Facebook helped us to feel a bit more connected...however, it definitely wasn't the same. I've got a gut feeling that the next month and another holiday away from family and friends may bring with a whole slew of mixed emotions. More about that later, I'm sure...

This month (as part of the Autumn celebrations), Kaz and I went to Korankei (a valley near Nagoya) to see the foliage illuminated at night! Like any Japan festival/event - there was also tons of food...much of which you could only get at this event during this time of year. One of the "must have" foods was the Chinese noodle - Toshomen (which means "sword grinding noodle"). The chefs take a ball of dough and shave the noodles into a pot of boiling hot water (see the video below). And, the festival we attended actually invited Chinese chefs from Nanjing to make the noodles! They were steaming hot, delicious, and definitely worthy of being Month 11's "featured food!"  

And without further ado...here is Month 11! 

Places Visited and Activities
-Higashiyama Koen Botanical Gardens: Since the botanical gardens are only about a 10-minute walk from our house, we try to visit at least once or twice every season. On this visit, we were able to enjoy lots of fall flowers. I can't believe how many flowers are still blooming! And, a few of the sakura (cherry blossom) trees even had some fall buds. I feel like it's Japan's way of letting us know that we will survive the winter - and spring will be here before we know it! 

-Trip to Koya-san - see previous blog post!


-Korankei in Toyota City: The foliage in Japan has been absolutely beautiful...though I don't think it's quite as beautiful as Michigan foliage. I am probably a bit biased!! The Japanese Maple trees (which have the most amazing leaves) are turning shades of yellow, orange, and red...often with all the colors in one tree. Giving the trees a rainbow-like appearance. Two of Kaz's coworkers invited us to join them in enjoying the foliage in Korankei (which is just outside of Toyota City and actually known as one of the best places to view foliage in all of Japan). On weekends, people literally wait hours just to get a parking spot. Luckily, by going on a Thursday night, we were able to beat the crowds. 

One thing I have learned about Japan is that they really like to have evening/night festivals in which they illuminate things. Illuminating the sakuara in the spring is probably an even bigger deal than the fall foliage. We have that on our list for next year! 


-Toyota Automobile Museum: Nagoya is known for its automotive industry (hence the reason that we are living here). And, Toyota has two museums (Toyota Automobile Museum; Toyota Museum of Industry and Technology) in Nagoya. So, on a rainy Sunday, we spent time exploring the automobile museum. The museum had a really impressive collection of old cars (that's what Kaz said at least...cars are not really my thing) and helped visitors to understand the ways in which cars have evolved...in both Japan and the rest of the world. I found it quite interesting to see the differences between cars in America and cars in Japan over the years...especially since nowadays they are basically the same. 

-Tokugawa-en: More foliage at a local park!

-Ise - more to come in a future blog post. 


-Cirque de Soleil - Totem: Cirque de Soleil is in Nagoya for the next couple of months. So, we spent a Friday evening enjoying "Totem" under the Big Top. Totem's theme is the evolution of humanity and the acrobatics had me on the edge of my seat throughout the entire show. 

-Kyoto: Kaz's mom has been in Nagoya visiting for the past few weeks. We took advantage of a super sunny Saturday to spend the day wandering around Kyoto. Although, it was technically "past peak" when it came to the foliage - we still enjoyed some pretty stunning views! We even got to visit Eikan-do Zenrin-ji, which was a new spot for me...and we were lucky enough to be able to enjoy watching the sun set over the city from atop the pagoda. 
Cafes Enjoyed
-Komi Coffee (Koya-san)
-Beatnik Cafe (Nagoya)














Kit Kat Flavors Tasted
-None this month.
However, I just picked up a new flavor - Butter Cookie - which appears to be the seasonal flavor.

Victories
-Japan Support Network Learning Conference (Tokyo) - About a month ago, I received an email from a fellow American SLP in the Tokyo area asking me if I would be interested in giving a short presentation at an upcoming conference for professionals working in the international community/school systems. I was both excited and nervous at the idea...and, accepted the offer. On November 11, I gave a short one-hour presentation on implementing Acceptance and Commitment Therapy (ACT) with students and parents in the international community to a group of about 50 teachers, therapists, and professionals. And, I think it went rather well. I enjoyed the challenge of helping others to understand ACT (in a very short period of time) and helping them to think about how they could use some of the principles with their students/families. I also enjoyed the opportunity to talk with and learn from other professionals...especially since Nagoya has a much smaller international community than Tokyo. My colleague, Kim, also attended the conference...so we headed to Tokyo the day before. We were able to meet with an organization that provides psychological/counseling services to expat families...and we were also able to explore the area just a bit! 
-JLPT N5 Test - As I mentioned in my last blog post, I have been preparing for the Japanese Language Proficiency Test (Level 5) for the past two months. I took the test on Sunday...and I think it went "okay." I'll get the scores in January - so time will tell. I have to say I am very glad that I was familiar with the setup and structure of the test before I took it. Everything was in Japanese (since it was the universal language between the individuals present) and I didn't really understand anything that was said. Luckily, everyone in the room seemed to be relying on each other to know when to begin/when time was up. There were at least 100 people in my room (including 6 or 7 young children) and there was one other classroom of people taking N5. The other levels of the test were held in the building next door and seemed to have even more people than the N5. 
-Finished up a 10-week free online course called "The Science of Happiness" through UC Berkley. It was my first online course...ever...and I enjoyed it! 
-School has been picking up - and getting busier. I have just hit a point where I am actually working with more students than I was last year. I have also been meeting even more staff members and teachers this year...and in general, feeling more familiar and comfortable with the school and what I am doing! 

Goals
-With the anniversary of our first year in Japan quickly approaching - I am hoping to take some time to reflect on the past year...and also think about my goals for the next year in Japan.
-Get back into yoga. I've been doing some yoga on my own since coming to Japan - but it doesn't quite feel the same. So, I am hoping to find a studio and begin attending more regular classes starting in January. 
-Survive the "homesickness" that may arise from spending the Christmas and New Year's holidays away from family.  

Sun and Clouds
-This month - I decided to combine my "sun" and "clouds" sections...because this month was filled with days in which both seemed to exist simultaneously.  On November 17th, it was the nine-year anniversary since my mom passed away. For me, the day brought a whole slew of emotions. There's something about being in Japan...and having more alone time to think and process which has been bringing various thoughts and emotions to the surface. (I'm working on that blog post...as I type). Some of the sunny moments included my wonderful friends from the US surprising me by having flowers delivered to me; the beautiful sunset that I was able to enjoy; spending the evening enjoying the fall foliage - just like my mom loved to do; and, reading various people's message and memories they posted. The cloudy moments obviously centered around the intense "missing" I feel on a daily basis...and especially on days like anniversaries, birthdays, holidays, etc. 

Sun, clouds, and lots of love!
~Jaime