FOOD: Everyday Differences - Take 4!

One of the first things that I learned about Japan was that this county LOVES food! And, on most days smells like food too! Without looking at the clock, I can tell when it's 5:30pm as the smell of soy sauce in one form or another comes wafting up through the vents of our apartment complex.

Japanese culture definitely centers around food. Everywhere you go - there is food! Whether it be at restaurants, combinis (convenience stores), roadside stands, etc. Gifts given are most commonly food; and, Japanese airlines even serve you a meal on a 45-minute domestic flight!! And, even if the shop is the size of your closet and looks extremely rundown and grimy - you can count on the food being tasty...otherwise people wouldn't eat it and the shop wouldn't exist! 

There are more restaurants in Japan than anywhere else I've visited thus far...and most of the restaurants look to hold a maximum of 15 people - tops! I've often wondered - and often been asked - how do all of these places stay in business? In Japan, it seems as though restaurants specialize in certain types of food...and so people will seek out a certain restaurants when they want a certain type of food. And, I don't just mean going to an Italian restaurant because you're craving Italian food or an Indian restaurant because you're craving Indian food. I mean...craving noodles and having to decide between going to a restaurant that serves udon noodles, soba noodles, or ramen noodles because you can't get all three in one place. Sure, there are chain restaurants here - and places that serve a variety of Japanese foods for you to choose from; however, when you want a certain food - it's best to go to a place that serves just that! 

I've come to realize through our travels over the past few years that enjoying a city or country's food is an absolutely amazing way to really experience the place you are visiting! And, if you do some research beforehand - you'll find that specialty dishes exist just about everywhere you go! Up until about 10 years ago, I don't think I enjoyed food nearly as much as I do now. Nor was I nearly as willing to try new foods either! 

As I could write numerous posts on food culture in Japan, I've been brainstorming about this post for some time. And, I've decided that it might be neat to both paint a picture of what "eating out" looks like in Japan (i.e., the foods that we tend to introduce to our visitors when they enroll in "Kaz's Japan Food Tour!!") and also talk a bit about what normal "everyday eating" looks like too! 

Breakfast 

Traditional Japanese breakfast

Traditional Japanese breakfast looks very different than modern-day Japanese breakfast. While families used to eat breakfasts of fish, rice, vegetables, and miso soup...Japan's fast-paced culture now leads itself more toward breakfast on the go. Combinis are packed with smoothies, drinkable yogurts, tamago-sands (egg sandwiches), and canned coffee. Plus, everywhere you look - there are bakeries enticing your taste buds with their amazing aromas. Most of the bakeries resemble French bakeries...as Japan loves France and French baked goods! You can get scones, croissants...and some of my favorites - melon pan (bread that looks like a melon - but doesn't taste like it) and curry pan (a deep-fried fritter filled with Japanese curry). Japan also loves their hot dogs - and so many of the morning baked goods involve hot dogs in some way!

For a cereal lover like me, breakfast was a bit of adjustment. While Japan does have cereal - there are about four kinds tops...and it's usually eaten as a snack or dessert. I can't tell you how many times my cup of ice cream had a little bit of cereal at the bottom. The cereals resemble Rice Krispies, Corn Flakes, Coco Puffs, and then something that literally looks like a combination of all three! So - my normal breakfast usually involves a smoothie, yogurt and fruit, toast, or cereal. Kaz sometimes eats rice, fish, and miso soup; however, not when in a time crunch!

(Combini tamago-sands and canned coffee - hot or cold!)

Lunch
For me, lunch in the US usually consisted of a salad or sandwich, fruit/veggies, yogurt, and possibly some nuts or crunchy snack to munch on mid-day. Occasionally, I would buy lunch at work; however, that was extremely rare for me. Japan is not really a sandwich country - and I have to say that a big deli sandwich is one of the foods that I miss the most. However, recently I have found a few places that serve "American sandwich approximates!" Japan does love cafes though - and cafes are probably the most common places to eat out for lunch (especially for woman). Cafes (and other lunch restaurants) usually serve "set meals" - meaning that you can pick one of a limited number of options. In many ways, this makes deciding what to eat much easier. With that said, Japan is not one to make changes to an order - the set comes with what it comes with...and that's just how it is! A typical cafe set meal may contain a small piece of quiche or pasta, soup, salad, and some bread. It's also rare for water to accompany a meal. You may get a small glass of water or tea at the start; however, it's rarely refilled. I often have to flag the waiter down an annoying amount of times...or bring my own water bottle with me!  

Noodles are also a very common lunch item in Japan. Soba noodles, which are made out of buckwheat, or udon noodles, which are made out of flour, are often served. In the winter, the noodles are served hot and in broth; in the summer, they are often served cold and then dipped into a dipping sauce. Noodle sets may also come with vegetables, tofu, and rice. Yep, you read that right...people commonly eat both noodles and rice in one meal?!?! The amount of carbs that people eat here is probably one of the most surprising realizations I've had foodwise - and I've had a lot of realizations. It's also one of the main things I've had to monitor with my eating as well - I swear I wish I processed carbs the way people here do!!!

(Hot soba noodles; udon noodles; cold soba noodles)

Bento boxes are another common lunch item. Most companies encourage their employees to eat lunch at work - so it is not too common to pack lunch and bring it to work. However, it does seem common to bring lunch to school. Bento boxes are simply boxes that contain little bits of many different types of food. Japan definitely values variety when it comes to a meal. Eating a little bit of many different foods is considered much better than eating a larger portion of one or two foods. Store-bought bentos often contain fish, meat, rice, vegetables, pickles, and a little bit of potato salad - and can be found at any combini, department store, or grocery store. The bento boxes that children bring to school are often an art form. Parents mold the rice or food items into shapes, animals, etc. There seems to be a bit of an informal competition that takes place for who can have the best-looking bento lunches! 

(Typical bento box; artsy bento box)

Snacks
Since a lot of the women in Japan do not work, a mid-afternoon snack culture exists in Japan. Kind of like tea time in Europe. You will often see cafes and restaurants offering tea/coffee sets, which usually consist of a drink (tea, coffee, or juice) and then a small dessert (a slice of cake, pie, or traditional sweet). Unlike American desserts, Japanese desserts are not nearly as sweet and the portion sizes are usually much smaller. However, I've had some pretty large pieces of cake! Japan also loves gelatin and red bean - so many of the traditional Japanese sweets contain one if not both of those!

Dorayaki - kind of like a red bean pancake sandwich. 

Daifuku - mochi filled with red bean and a strawberry.

If you don't have time to sit down for a snack, combinis are often your place to grab a quick snack. That and vending machines, which exist everywhere - just in case you need a drink! Two very common combini snacks include onigiri (rice balls - usually filled with salmon, tuna, fish eggs, etc.) and meat buns (usually containing pork, beef, and now even pizza toppings). You can also get oden (fish cakes), which have been simmering for hours in containers of dashi (fish or seaweed broth). Of course, snacks in a bag exist too. Things like nuts, crackers, and chips are available too. The big difference would be that a lot of Japan's snacks in a bag tend to be made with rice - rice crackers (senbei), puffed rice, etc. - and are often flavored with soy sauce or something in the seafood realm.

(onigiri galore; beef buns; oden in broth)

Dinner

Lots of side dishes! 

On a daily basis, Japanese dinners usually consist of some sort of meat/fish/tofu, a vegetable side or two, rice and miso soup. As I mentioned before, Japan likes variety - so several side dishes usually accompany each meal. Many of these side dishes take quite a long time to make - so they are often made in large batches and served for several days in a row. I would say that we eat a Japanese dinner about three or four days per week (whether traditional or Japanese-inspired). The other few days are usually spins on more western dishes (pasta, stir fries, chicken, etc.) depending on what I can find in the store. While I'm able to find about 70% of the food we used at home - this often involves trips to specialty grocers that have large international sections. So, sometimes it can be quite the challenge to make a recipe I've found on Pinterest! 

When we first arrived in Japan, I found myself really missing Mexican food and good, deep-dish pizza. And, I would say those are still the two foods that I miss the most. We brought back taco seasoning with us from the US last year, so that's made it a tad easier to make taco salads and actual tacos...if we're willing to pay about $10 for a pack of imported shells! I've also grown somewhat used to authentic thin-crust pizza and after 10 months we tried Dominos and were happy to find that once we looked past the fish- and corn-covered pizzas...we were able to make one that resembled home. It just cost us about $20...for a medium! 

My favorite Japanese meal to make at home is nabe. Basically, a hotpot filled with vegetables and meat. However, we often replace the meat with tofu or dumplings. The meal is quick and can be varied depending on what is available at the store. Nabe is often accompanied with rice or followed up with noodles (that you cook in the leftover broth). Nabe is usually eaten in the winter - because it's quite a hot dish; however, I tend to make it all year long! The Japanese people I've met often laugh when they hear how much I like nabe. 
Japan really enjoys food from other countries - so it's easy to find restaurants featuring Thai, Indian, Chinese, and Italian cuisines. I should note that these restaurants usually serve food that is authentic to that country. It was in some of these moments that I realized that the food I thought was authentic back home was actually quite Americanized! :) Japanese people also tend to go out for traditional foods that can be a pain to make at home - because it's easier and so many restaurants exist. Or, they may make simpler and healthier versions at home and then go out to eat when they want a more elevated version!

Some of the most common foods to get while eating out would be...
-Sushi -  sushi "rolls" are not really a thing in Japan - however, you can eat sushi off a conveyor belt! 

-Ramen - which is nothing like the cheap ramen noodle packets you ate in college. Ramen is considered a quick meal - you get in and get out...these restaurants are not often places to meet friends and chat!

-Okonomiyaki - Japanese savory pancakes, which are often considered "Japan's pizza." Osaka style is made with cabbage while Hiroshima style is made with noodles! 

-Katsu - a breaded, pork cutlet covered in "sauce" and accompanied with a pile of shredded cabbage. 

-Curry - Japanese curry reminds me a lot of beef stew and usually contains carrots, potatoes, onions, and beef...all poured over rice. I much prefer to make curry at home - as I can add way more vegetables into mine! 

-Yaki-tori, Yaki-niku -  grilled chicken and grilled beef (meat) respectively. These restaurants often feature tables with grills on them and diners can cook/grill the food at their table. 

The list goes on and on...but I think I covered the main dishes! There is also a strong "drinking party" culture here, so coworkers often attend nomikais after work where they eat and drink together. The parties are usually considered mandatory as they are a continuation of the work day. Izakayas (Japanese pubs) and restaurants serving okonomiyaki, yaki-tori, and yaki-niku are often the most common places for these types of events.

(okonomiyaki; ramen and gyoza; curry)

(sushi; yaki-niku; katsu)

Desserts 

Most Japanese houses do not have ovens. They may have small ovens to cook fish or microwave ovens that can also grill, steam, and bake small items; but, it would be just about impossible to bake a cake here. However, thanks to Japan's impressive dessert art and availability, no one has to bake. The basements of almost all department stores contain isles and isles of the most amazing desserts you've ever seen. Most of the time they don't look real...but they are! And, they also taste as good - if not better - than they look!

Japan also really loves ice cream! During the summers, soft serve and shaved ice are available almost everywhere you go and also come in a slew of flavors!! Some which sound odd - like black sesame and soda water - but are amazingly delicious. Combinis also have freezers filled with ice cream bars and popsicles. You can even get a soft-serve cone in a package. And nope - the cone is not soggy at all!! While I do miss the ease of baking here, I have definitely come to understand why people don't!

Service/Paying 
The last thing I thought I'd mention is how the ordering/paying process works in Japan since it's different than in the US. In general waiters do not come to your table unless called. They want to respect your time eating and not intrude. Usually you call them by saying (or yelling) - sumimasen - which means "excuse me." Additionally, it's very common for tables to have bells/buzzers on them - so that you can call the waiters that way. This was all an adjustment for me as the whole process feels a tad rude. The bill is often folded up and given to you as soon as your food arrives and then you take it up to pay when you are ready to leave. Again, allowing the patron to take as much time eating as desired.

As I wrap up this blog post, I keep thinking of all the foods and dining tidbits/differences I still haven't told you about! However, at least I've probably given you enough information to fuel your interest or your stomachs! ;) I guess you'll just have to come to Japan to try some of the food for yourselves! And, I'll also probably dedicate another post just to Japanese treats - can you believe I got all the way through this post without mentioning Kit Kats?! Until then...here's a few pics of Japan's plastic food! Without pictures and plastic food examples...I would have a much harder time eating out in Japan! 

Travel Entry - Thailand (Part 2)

The second half of our trip to Thailand brought us to the capital city of Bangkok. Bangkok (like Tokyo) is a big city - full of skyscrapers, expensive shops, and tons of neighborhoods/districts with their own unique flare and culture. During the 80s and 90s, many international companies moved their regional headquarters to Bangkok - so it has also become quite an international city as well. Interestingly, Bangkok is known as a "primate city." A primate city is at least twice as large and more than twice as significant as the next largest city in the country. Additionally, a primate city is number one in things like politics, economy, media, culture, and education.
I have to say that one thing I noticed about Bangkok almost immediately was the smell. When you combine heat and humidity with outdoor restaurants/food vendors and air pollution - the smell can be quite intense. And, the traffic is ridiculous. I've never seen anything like it! There were massive traffic jams at all hours of the day - even with the public transit system that is in place. Apparently Bangkok's rapid growth and poor urban planning has resulted in a haphazard cityscape and inadequate infrastructure systems. The airport was less than 15 miles from our hotel and it took us close to 90 minutes to get there in the middle of the afternoon!

On our first full day in Bangkok, we explored The Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun, and the Jim Thompson House. Then, we ended our day with a food tour! 

*The Grand Palace*

The Grand Palace was the official residence of the Kings of Siam (and later Thailand) from 1782 until 1925. It is a complex of buildings that vary greatly in style and design - as buildings have been added and rebuilt by the kings over the past 200 years. 

The dress code for entering The Grand Palace is even more strict than for the wats we visited in Chiang Mai. As we left the hotel, the concierge told Kaz that they would not let him into the palace unless he was wearing pants. And, I had to change into shoes that covered my toes. Needless to say, we joined the locals in wearing long pants in the extreme heat and humidity! 

To get to The Grand Palace, Wat Arun, and Wat Pho, we had to take a water taxi...if you can call it that. I am sure we were breaking more safety codes than we were meeting. People were crammed tightly onto the water taxi and a quick whistle was all that signified a stop. If you didn't make your way to the back of the boat in about 5 seconds - you weren't getting off! 

One little tidbit of information about the palace that I found the most interesting was that as they were building it, they ran out of materials. So, the King ordered his men to go upstream to the old capital city of Ayutthaya (explained in more detail later in this post) and dismantle/remove as many bricks as they could find. The city had been destroyed in 1767 during a war with Burma. The King instructed his men to leave the temple ruins alone; however, by the end, all of the royal palaces had been completely leveled. 

*Wat Pho*

After a coffee break to cool ourselves down, we continued on to Wat Pho, which was just down the street from The Grand Palace. Wat Pho is known as the temple of the reclining Buddha - and one of its building contains a huge reclining Buddha. The Buddha represents the entry of Buddha into Nirvana at the end of all reincarnations. The reclining posture is referred to as "sihasaiyas" - the posture of a sleeping or reclining lion. 

The temple is also considered the first public university of Thailand - teaching students in the fields of religion, science, and literature through murals and sculptures. In 1955, a school for traditional medicine and massage was established - and four courses are currently offered: Thai pharmacy, Thai medical practice, Thai midwifery, and Thai massage.

All of our guidebooks had listed "getting a Thai massage" as one of the top things to do in Thailand; however, they also cautioned tourists to select wisely. Since the "birthplace of traditional Thai massage" seemed as refutable a place as we could find...we decided on 30-minute Thai foot massages. One of the differences between Thai foot massages and others I've had is that they use little wooden tools on your feet. While it was a bit painful - it also felt pretty good! I'm really glad I did not opt for the Thai body massage though because a man was getting one next to me and the woman was twisting him in so many positions that he was actually crying and yelling out in pain! 

As part of our evening food tour, we stopped to explore Wat Pho at night. The gemstones and gold-leafing sparkled even more. And, we even spotted a real cat sleeping soundly in the arms of one of the giant statues (the statue was the Thai depiction of  a Westerner at that time)!

*Wat Arun*

Wat Arun derives its name from the Hindu god, Aruna, who is often personified as the radiations of the rising sun. Many of the wats also contain small Hindu temples, as there is a strong Indian influence in Thailand. It is believed that in 1768, King Taksin arrived at this temple just as dawn was breaking (after fighting his way out of Ayutthaya). The main part of the wat was under construction; however, it was still a site to see! 

*Jim Thompson's House*

The last stop on our whirlwind tour of downtown Bangkok was The Jim Thompson House. Jim Thompson was an American business man who helped to revitalize the Thai silk industry in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1967, when visiting friends in Malaysia's Cameron Highlands, Jim Thompson went out for a walk and never returned. To this day, his body has not been found and no one has figured out exactly what happened....though many theories exist. 

His house still stands and visitors are able to tour it and learn about Jim's life and his lasting influence on Thailand.

*Midnight Food Tour*

Bangkok is also known as the "world's best street food" city. And, we decided to allow the locals to show us some of the best cuisine by taking a food tour! I'm really glad we did this - as most (if not all) of the places we ate at...would probably have been places that I might have passed up. I'm still working on the whole not judging the quality of the food by what the restaurant looks likes...even if their kitchen is outside and people are eating on the sidewalk! 

We were picked up by our very own decked-out tuktuk and driven all over the city! Our tuktuk was equipped with pink and purple lights and "Let it Go" blaring from the speakers. We started out with an array of traditional Thai dishes - all of which were way too spicy for me to enjoy! However, then we stopped for sticky mango rice (YUM!); a dish that contained chicken, egg, and noodles; and, we ended with the best Pad Thai in all of Bangkok! On the way, we even got to stop at a flower market to see where all the Buddhist offerings are prepared. And, we enjoyed a drink atop a rooftop bar...as Bangkok is also the "rooftop bar capital of the world!" I'm really glad we took this tour - as it enabled us to sample so many of Bangkok's specialties in such a short time...and it helped me to expand my food repertoire even more! 

*Day-Trip to Ayutthaya* 

Feeling the need to get away from the craziness of Bangkok, we spent the next day exploring the ancient capital city of Ayutthaya. Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 and grew to be one of the world's largest and most cosmopolitan urban areas and a center of global diplomacy and commerce. The city was attacked by the Burmese army in 1767 and was burned to the ground - forcing its people to flee. The city was never rebuilt; however, its archaeological ruins are managed as a historical site and considered one of Thailand's UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

There are wats everywhere and you can walk (or drive) from wat to wat. There were barely any tourists around (as Thailand's high season for visitors had just ended) and Kaz and I were able to explore the ruins uninterrupted. A ticket is required for each wat and we didn't realize until the end that you can buy a group ticket for a select group of the wats. Ooops! Just a little piece of advice in case any of you ever visit! 

Wat Yai Chaimongkhon, Wat Maha That, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phrasisanpeth, and Wat Phra Ram were just a few of the wats we visited. I think we may have visited two or three more; however, we could have spent days exploring all the sites! Just like temples in Japan all start to look the same after a while...so do wats! No matter how much you enjoy Indian Jones! ;)

While each wat was unique - one consistency I noticed was that most of the remaining Buddha statues did not have heads. We later found out that when looters came through the sites, they took most of the jewels and other valuables. And the Buddha heads were considered to be very valuable. 

Here are some pictures from the various ruins we explored!

All-in-all, I truly enjoyed our trip to Thailand and found the history interesting and the sites beautiful. I have to admit, however, that I don't feel the need or the yearning to return any time soon. In our three days each in Chiang Mai and Bangkok, I feel like we "conquered" both cities and that I "got a good feel" for Thailand. Perhaps though, if we visit again in the future, we'll spend time in some of the more remote beachside towns and villages. 

Now on to our whirlwind-trip to Cambodia, which will complete our Golden Week 2017 Travels! Blog post coming soon! :)