Travel Entry - Miyajima and Hiroshima

Over the past month, we've had two groups of visitors from the US! Katie and Kelly visited us for nine days at the beginning of July and Katie and Tim visited us for twelve days after that! With both groups, we took a day-trip to Hiroshima and the neighboring island of Miyajima. Even though is was technically rainy season - we lucked out with beautifully sunny (yet scorching) days.

The day started with a 2.5-hour Shinkansen ride to Hiroshima, followed by a 35-minute local train and 10-minute ferry ride to Miyajima. After exploring Miyajima, we enjoyed Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki (made with noodles) for lunch before spending some time in Hiroshima. We arrived back in Nagoya just before 10pm.

Here's a bit more about both places...

Miyajima

Miyajima Island is about 20km from central Hiroshima and has been named one of the three most scenic spots in all of Japan. Miyajima is most famous for the great Torii - which acts as a boundary between the spirit and the human worlds. The first torii was built in 1168 and it has been rebuilt eight times - 1875 being the most recent rebuild. Interestingly, the torii is not buried deep in the sand - it is actually supported by its own weight. The box-shaped upper portion is also filled with about seven tons of stones the size of a human fist. The torii is painted such a bright color because bright colors were (and still are) believed to keep the evil spirits away. 

Visitors can view the Torii by simply walking around the island - or get even more up close and stunning views from within the Itsukushima Shrine. There is documentation about the shrine's existence dating back to 593. Apparently, before the shrine was built many people worshiped the island itself as a goddess. Like many places in Japan, Itsukushima Shrine was destroyed many times - by fire, weather, etc. - and changes were made to its design each time. The Shrine standing today was built in 1571, named a Natural Treasure in 1952, and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. 

One of the neatest things about the Great Torii and Itsukushima Shrine is that they look different depending on the height of the tide. The first time I visited, it was high tide and both the torii and the shrine looked as though they were floating in the water. The second time I visited, it was between high and low tide. The shrine did not have any water under it - and the torii was submerged in much shallower water. We were able to walk about half way out to the gate. Hopefully next time, we'll go at low tide - so that I can take a picture standing under the gate...and then decide at which stage of tide I like the torii and shrine best! 

High Tide

Between high tide and low tide

Miyajima Island also many shops that make and sell momiji manju (small cakes in the shape of a maple leaf and filled with sweet bean paste, custard or chocolate). I had never seen or tried this treat before - but enjoyed it quite a bit! I think my favorite flavors were chocolate and peach because neither of them had the consistency of bean paste! ;)

After exploring Miyajima, it was time for lunch. Hiroshima is famous for their version of okonomiyaki (the cabbage pancake I blogged about earlier). Hiroshima's okonomiyaki is different because it contains either udon or soba noodles in addition to the cabbage and other ingredients. As I was researching the best places to eat okonomiyaki, I came across Okonomi-mura. Okonomi-mura is actually a collection of little stalls (each a different restaurant) where you can eat okonomiyaki (and they will cook it right in front of you). There were probably about 10-15 stalls on three different floors of the building. Not knowing which was better than the other - I randomly picked a place that had the most people each time we visited - and we were not disappointed. I think the "safety" of Japan's food is rubbing off on me because I am not sure I would have even entered a place like this in the US. The building is quite old and run down - but as always - the stalls were spotless and the food was delicious! 

All of our visitors preferred Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, Kaz prefers Osaka-style, and I love both!

Hiroshima

Most of our time in Hiroshima was spent wandering through the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. The park contains many memorials, monuments, and museums for visitors to view. First we visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum (currently only half of it is open due to construction) and then we walked around some of the highlighted monuments and memorials.

I have to say that I was initially nervous about visiting the museum - I guess it was the fact that America bombed Japan and I am an American in Japan. I mean, I know I didn't play a role in the bombing...and I know that Japan did bad things to the US in the past...but there was just an uncomfortable feeling in the pit of my stomach. I was also expecting to come away from the museum and city with an overwhelming feeling of sadness. And, while, I definitely felt a lot of grief and sadness - I was overcome by the message of peace and hope. Actually, when reflecting on the visit, all of our visitors agreed that the message they took from Hiroshima was one of hope as well. 

I was also surprised by the size of Hiroshima. I thought that it would be rather small - but it's a pretty big and bustling city. It is absolutely amazing to me that this city was completely destroyed in 1945 and by 1958 - it's population exceeded post-war numbers. And, now it's the 11th biggest city in Japan. That definitely says a lot about the resilience of the people in Hiroshima. And, the people there were also some of the friendliest I've encountered thus far in Japan. 

Overall, I found the museum to be very neutral. The exhibits definitely tugged at your heartstrings and made you feel sick - but they seemed to state statistics and facts and then allow viewers to formulate their own opinions and ideas. By looking at the brochure, I noticed that many of the exhibits under construction were ones that seemed to interpret the situation more - so I'm curious to see if those exhibits feel as neutral as these did. Either way, I definitely plan to visit Pearl Harbor (hopefully in the near future) - as I truly believe there is tremendous power in understanding all sides of any situation. 

The Memorial Cenotaph and Peace Flame

Children's Peace Monument

There were stalls full of thousands of paper cranes made by children all over the world. We even read that there is a registry that keeps track of everyone who donates cranes to the exhibit. 

Cenotaph for Korean Victims

It is believed that over 45,000 of the victims were Korean. The inscription states that "souls of the dead ride to heaven on the backs of turtles." 

Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound

Contains the ashes of the 70,000 unidentified victims of the bombing. 

President Obama's Peace Cranes

President Obama visited Hiroshima in May. He was the first US president to visit while actively serving as president. There was small exhibit at the museum about his visit - which was viewed very positively by the people of Hiroshima (and Japan).

The A-Bomb Dome

The bomb hit just a few meters from this building (actually in the exact spot where the museum stands today) and this is what was left of it. Apparently, there was some debate over whether to keep the building up or to knock it down. Some people felt it would be a constant reminder of pain and suffering while others believed it would be a sign of hope.

I would say that the trip is doable in a day - but I definitely want to make a weekend trip out of it - and spend even more time at Miyajima! I read that you can hike Mt. Misen and see primitive plants in their natural setting. Plus, you can make your own momiji manju! I think Miyajima may now be in the running for my favorite place in Japan thus far! And, I am hoping that the other half of the Peace Museum opens before we leave - so that I can visit that as well! 

Sunny Moments: Beauty; exploring new places in Japan with friends; yummy food; super friendly people; messages of hope

Cloudy Moments: Sad reminders of what war can do

Month 6 in Review

This blog post is a few weeks late as we've had two groups of visitors over the past three weeks! More about that in future blog posts - as we spent a lot of time exploring new parts of Japan and enjoying getting to show our guests what life in Japan has been like for us!

On July 4th, we celebrated not only America's birthday - with the most American meal we could conjure up in Japan - randomly finding Johnsville brats definitely helped - but also the quarter completion of our stay here in Japan! It's rather wild that six months have passed already! 

In mid-June, Kaz's coworkers invited us over for a gyoza making party...so I thought that gyoza would be a good food to feature in this blog post. I have to say that gyoza is one of my favorite Japanese foods...and was one that I loved even before coming to Japan (You can find them in many international grocery stories in the US). I would say that gyoza closely resembles a mix between a dumpling and a potsticker. 

Gyoza actually originated in China (where they are called jiaozi) and are typically filled with ground pork, chives, green onions, cabbage, ginger, and garlic. Then, they are dipped in a sauce which is a combination of soy sauce, vinegar, and a few drops of sesame oil. Gyoza can be steamed or panfried. I tend to like a combination of both - you panfry them to get them nice and crispy and then steam them at the end to get them nice and hot. YUM! :)

And without further ado - here's month six! 

Places Visited (and Activities)

-Belgian Beer Festival (Osaka): As I was researching some fun things to do in Japan, I stumbled across a Belgian Beer Festival that was taking place in cities all over Japan. So, along with our friends, the Bauer's, we headed to Osaka to enjoy the festival. We had a lot of fun trying new kinds of beer, yummy snacks, and even enjoyed listening to a band from Belgium. I am quickly realizing that Japan goes all out with their festivals - making them as real and authentic as possible! 

-Momofuku Ando Instant Ramen Museum (Osaka): Yep, you are reading that correctly! Japan has a museum dedicated to instant ramen noodles (and the person who invented them). The museum is actually really neat and quite informative. I never realized - or gave thought - to the fact that the invention of instant ramen noodles helped to feed so many people after the war. At the museum, you get to make your own instant ramen noodle cup to take home with you...and you can also enjoy a nice lunch of ramen noodles too. They have vending machines FULL of ramen noodles from all over Japan! YUM!! 

-INAX Tile Museum: I joined a few other expats and explored the INAX Tile Museum in Tokoname. Tokoname is about a 30 minute train ride from Nagoya Station. The museum has many exhibits featuring tile replicas from all over the world. There is also a studio where guests can make their own tile designs. I made one of Mt. Fuji! 

-Hiking the Magome to Tsumago Trail: Kaz and I spent an afternoon hiking a portion of the old Nakasendo (the road that connected Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo period - 1603 to 1868). We started in the post town of Magome, which was really beautiful. The roads were cobbled and lined with shops and restaurants. Along the way, a man waved us into his house (or maybe garage) - which he had set up as resting spot for hikers. We enjoyed some tea and met a group from Scotland. We enjoyed lunch in Tsumago, which had a slightly more rustic feel. Both towns really gave you the feeling that you were stepping back in time! Along the way, we passed many bells meant for hikers to ring in order to keep bears away - thankfully we didn't see any! It might have been because I was sure to ring every bell! 

-Nagoya Aquarium: Kaz and I spent an afternoon at the Nagoya Aquarium. I really enjoyed the whale, beluga, and dolphin shows. They felt a bit more like Sea World to me than what you usually see at the aquarium. The dolphins even bowed to thank the audience for coming! I also learned some Japanese names for the marine life (whale: シャチshyachi; dolphin: いるか iruka). Most of the exhibits did not have English translations (which is typical) - so I was glad that aquariums are not a new thing for me.

-Rugby Game: Kaz and I attended our first rugby match ever. We headed up to Toyota City to watch Japan play Scotland. Neither of us have ever watched rugby - so we spent the train ride trying to get a basic understanding of the rules. Overall, we enjoyed the game - I was shocked that more padding wasn't worn by the players...and I found it to be more entertaining than American football!

-Kirin Brewery Tour: Since my 30th birthday fell on a rather rainy weekend - we enjoyed some fun activities around Nagoya. We toured the Kirin Beer Brewery (which is about a 25-minute train ride from Nagoya Station). The beer tour was free and featured a 25-minute period at the end where you could drink and sample as many beers as you wanted. I have noticed in Japan that they rarely - if ever - check IDs. Instead you have to verbally state that you are over 20 years old and you have to tell them how you arrived at your location and how you will be getting home. If you are driving a vehicle of any kind, you are not allowed to drink. The have a 0.00% rule here. 

Cafes Enjoyed

Ants (Osaka)

Tully's Cofee (we had to go to the cafe with the same name as our cat!)

Elks Cafe

Trunk Coffee

Kit Kat Flavors Tasted

None this month...I am having a really hard time finding new flavors. I am starting to hypothesize that perhaps no one eats Kit Kats in the summer months?!

Victories

-June marked the end of the Nagoya International School school year. I have really enjoyed the past four months at the school and have learned a lot! I am excited to start a new school year in August - and to have the entire year to learn and grow even more. 

-I got my first haircut in Japan. The salon was recommended to us because the owner worked in New York City for several years and has great English. Kaz also goes to this salon - so he was able to let them know that his wife speaks very little Japanese. I was happy with the way my hair turned out - and I LOVED the head massage! 

-So far rainy season has been very...dry! Which is apparently quite atypical. For the most part, I haven't had to battle mold or too many bugs just yet. We still have a few weeks - but hoping this dry spell continues for our visitors! 

-Kaz passed his driver's test and now has an actual International Driver's license! This whole process has solidified to me even more that I am just fine not driving while in Japan. 

Goals

-Next month, we have two sets of visitors arriving in Japan. Since Kaz will be at work most of the time - I am going to be doing a majority of the speaking and navigating on my own. I hope I am up for the challenge - and that I am able to "go with it" the best I can...especially when things don't go exactly as I want them to...which is bound to happen! 

-Figure out how running will work in the heat, humidity, and possibly rain...I struggle with this type of running weather!

Sunny Moments

-The sunniest moment of this entire month was definitely the surprise video that Kaz made for my 30th birthday. Without me knowing, he emailed many of my family members and friends and had them record a birthday message for me. On my birthday morning - there was a card sitting on the computer. It read "push play" - and when I did...the video sprung to life. I cried, laughed, and felt SO much love! Being able to see and hear people - as though they were in the room with me - was amazing! I have watched the video many times since then! 

Cloudy Moments

-Being illiterate. Some days the fact that I can't read much of anything in Japan can really get to me. Signs, menus, our mail, and even random texts look like meaningless scribbles. Sometimes I can read parts of the message if I take my time - but it usually doesn't help me to even figure out the gist of the message. 

-This month has brought lots of births and big events for family and friends - and it's hard not being there in person to share in those special moments! It's times like these that really make me realize how far away I am! 

Sun, clouds, and lots of love! 

~Jaime

30 Observations about Japan...Part 2!

And the list continues...  :)

16. Japan loves flowers! Or, maybe I just pay attention to them more. However, I have seen more flowers outside here than I ever remember seeing in the US. It almost seems as though just as one flower disappears, another grows in its place. Maybe this makes up for the lack of grass. Other than at parks...you don't see grass!

17. Japan LOVES carbs! Maybe it's just me - but before coming to Japan - I was under the impression that people here eat VERY healthy. Lots of veggies and fish...rather low carb. However, I can't believe the amount of carbs that fill the Japanese diet - white bread (much thicker and more delicious than US bread), pastries, cakes of all sorts, beer, noodles, and of course rice! At a lot of ramen restaurants - people will eat a huge bowl of noodles and then follow that up with a bowl of rice...while drinking beer!

Kaz's argument is that carbs are "free" for Japanese people...and they must be...seeing as so many of them are rather thin. My body doesn't seem to view carbs as "free" - so I've had to modify what I eat since arriving here!

I have to say, though, foods here are much fresher than in the US - and preservatives don't really exist!

18. Vending machines are the best! There are vending machines EVERYWHERE in Japan...on the side of the road, in random parking lots...at any moment, you are probably less than a five minute walk to a vending machine. The most recent statistic I came across was that there are currently about 5.52 million vending machines nationwide.
Vending machines contain many things - but I would say drinks are the most popular. In the winter - many of the drinks are even hot (which is amazing)! I've also seen some vending machines which serve only beer.

19.  If you see someone pushing a stroller, chances are it contains a pet instead of a child. I read an article the other day that was hypothesizing that Japan might have more pets than children. This may in fact be true. I have quickly learned not to assume that a couple out for a walk is pushing their child in a stroller - because more than half of the time - it's a dog. And I think the dogs here have nicer strollers and nicer outfits than most babies I know!

Also, Japan has a lot of pet cafes where you can go to hang out with bunnies, cats, dogs, birds, and even owls.

20. Stores may - and probably will - give you sensory overload. Usually stores in Japan have bright lights, florescent signs, crowds of people, music blaring, people yelling things in Japanese, and stuff everywhere. Not to mention that determining what a product is often requires being able to read...Japanese! I have quickly learned that spreading shopping out can help lessen overstimulation...slightly!  

21. Small children often travel on their own. It's not rare to see a four or five year old walking somewhere on their own - or taking the subway to school. The children often wear brightly colored hats (so that they are easily identifiable) and often wear cellphones around their necks (that are only able to call one or two pre-programed numbers). This is an excellent example of Japan's collective nature - it's everyone's responsibility to look out for the kids.  

22. You can never have enough point cards. Almost every store you go into asks you if you want a point card - and the process of actually filling out the paperwork for one can be complicated. I have to admit that Kaz did the signing up for the ones he thought would be useful. I just had to struggle through learning that the several sentences of dialogue every sales clerk said to me at the check out usually involved asking me if I had or wanted to sign up for a point card. Now I just smile and say "ie" (no). I'm not sure if the point cards we actually use have ever "saved" us any money either! 

23. The entire country of Japan smells like food. Literally!! 

24. Japan has a huge "gift giving" culture...you give people gifts for just about everything. And, the stores are set up to cater to this culture. If you walk into the basement of any department store - it is filled with cakes, cookies, tea...any type of gift you would need. And, if you tell them what you buy is going to a gift - they will wrap it for you - free of charge. And the wrapping is always beautiful! 

25. No one wears sunglasses. It took me less than a month to realize that no one in Japan wears sunglasses. This surprises me - given the intensity of the sun and also the general fear of sun exposure. Apparently wearing sunglasses gives off the message that you are up to no good. I guess that would explain the looks I get when I wear mine daily! 

26. Crows are WAY smarter than you would think! In Japan - garbage sorting is a HUGE process. We have several trash cans in our kitchen and then we have to sort what goes in each...which often results in taking apart every container. Then there are certain days that each type of garbage is collected. We are VERY lucky that all we have to do is sort our trash - and our apartment worries about putting it out on the right days.

The crows LOVE the garbage - and are able to get into it - no matter how hard a person tries to outsmart them. They really are like a six or seven year old child! Plus they are huge, loud, and vicious...their caws literally send chills down my spine! 

27. There are a lot of bags in Japan! You see people carrying bags of all types - all the time. Which makes sense since most people walk places to do their shopping. I have learned that when you buy a gift - they will give you two or three extra bags so you can use them to deliver the gifts. Also, when it's raining - they will give you a plastic bag to cover your paper bag - so it won't get wet. And on rainy days you'll also find bags for your wet umbrellas at the entrance of every store...so that you don't drip in the store. 

28. Japan is a country that prides themselves on professionalism. People take their jobs seriously - even if it may seem to others like an unimportant job. At most jobs, people wear uniforms - and tend to follow the same scripts. So, you will likely hear the same words from a waitress no matter what restaurant you go to. This helps me to better understand what to expect when I go somewhere - and it also gives the customer a better experience. The only down sides are that it takes away some of the "individuality"and sometimes you don't know if the person is being nice just because they have to be. 

29. Crowds and lack of personal space take on a whole new meaning once you've been on a train in which a person with white gloves actually pushed people on to make more fit!

30. If I had to describe Japan in just one word (after these six months), I would pick "oxymoron." Old/new....very professional/drunk business men sleeping on the sidewalk...uniforms/people dressed like Pokemon...etc. Just as I start to make sense of Japan - I see something that totally challenges the "rule" I think exists. More about this in a later blog post! 

Phew - and that's wrap!  I hope this makes you want to visit Japan even more - we'd love visitors! :)

Sunny Moments: I think I've learned more about Japan in 6 months than I thought...

Cloudy Moments: Getting stuffed into a train...CROWS! ;)