Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Clouds and Challenges...


I've been pondering this entry for the last few weeks...trying to process how to put thoughts and experiences into words. And, also struggling a bit with the idea of a blog post that may have a few more "cloudy" moments than "sunny" ones. I like to think of myself as a generally positive person - and I feared that this post would paint a bit of a negative picture of my life in Japan. And, the more I thought about it, the more I realized that it is rather unreasonable to think that moving to an entirely new country would not bring challenges. In fact, when we went through training before coming to Japan - they talked about the various stages of "culture shock" - with the steps following the initial "honeymoon" period involving struggle, frustration, homesickness, and the like. I guess if they have it on a chart - it must be a rather common experience, eh?! 



Looking back, I have to admit that I wasn't expecting to go through the "honeymoon" phase when we arrived in Japan...and I am seeing now that I definitely did. I was overwhelmed and everything was new - and yet, I was able to process,  handle (or at least "get through"), and let go of things that happened. If something resulted in a "challenge" - I didn't get as upset or hold on to a situation as much as I expected myself to. I remember telling a friend that I was shocked that I didn't panic in the situation in which the construction worker had to take my hand and guide me across a muddy field. Had that happened in the US - I know I would have at least been flustered! Even the mundane things - like grocery shopping, doing laundry, cleaning the apartment, and picking up dry cleaning were new experiences. And, often took half a day to complete. Kaz would come home and ask what I did during the day - and I would only be able to list one or two things (yet, I had been busy and moving all day long). At yet, at this point - I was totally okay with that. As time continues on, I am still mostly okay with the times things take - though sometimes it gets a little overwhelming when you days disappear! A friend of mine came across this quote and I think it really summarizes these first few weeks perfectly. 


I would say the "newness" and "excitement" began to wear off a bit starting around week 4 (which did coincide with me falling out of a closet and severely spraining my ankle).  I began to realize just how difficult things could be when I couldn't communicate (or walk) in circumstances other than buying food. I went back and forth debating whether a doctor's visit or x-ray was needed. Sure, Kaz could go with me on the weekend...except that most places weren't open then. Oh, and before I could go - I needed to find a clinic or hospital to go to...which meant navigating webpages that were all written in Japanese. Ugh!! And I still had to go to work but I couldn't drive a car - so even with the subway and bus - I still would have to walk some to get there! Now, Toyota does offer a service in which someone can accompany you to appointments; however, even that felt strange to me. And, I probably could have made it through the situation with lots of pointing and gesturing...and yet, it seemed like so much work. And, work that I didn't want to do. Yes, I do sometimes have a stubborn side! And, this was also a key factor in recognizing that my ankle wasn't broken. I surely would have went if I was in excruciating pain. So, I contemplated (and iced my ankle) and very luckily was able to consult with Kaz's coworker's wife (who happens to be a doctor). I'm happy to report that all is healing well...and I am hoping to attempt running again in a few weeks. This whole experience has also showed me just how much running is a source of stress relief for me...and how feeling sluggish and not relieving stress can affect your mood and ability to "let things go." Even without this unfortunate situation, though, I do think these challenges/moments of cloudiness would have seeped in anyway. 

Instead of rambling on and on about various moments of "challenge" and "cloudiness" - because they really do come and go - I thought it would be easier to talk about a few topics/themes that have been difficult. I've realized that I too have been thinking about "struggles" lately in the form of themes.

Being a Minority
First, I must say that the opportunity to be a minority is an extremely humbling one. And, in the same breath - a challenging one too. Initially, I wasn't bothered and didn't really even notice when people stared at me. I was expecting it - especially as I learned that Japan really has very few foreigners when you get down to the numbers. By talking with Kaz and my Japanese tutor - I have really come to realize that many Japanese people have little to no experience actually interacting with foreigners. Which also means that they have little experience listening to people who are not Japanese speak Japanese...and that can make speaking situations even more difficult. In the United States, we are often used to people speaking all different kinds or dialects of English - and yet, in Japan - people tend to speak Japanese the same way (though there are dialects). So when someone is struggling with broken Japanese - it may be even harder to figure out what is being said - especially one word at a time (so you may be trying to order "non-fat milk" and pause at the wrong time in the word making it sound like "bug").

I've had little things occur...like a person sitting down next to me on the train, then glancing up at me - seeing my face - perhaps - looking panicked themselves and then moving to another seat. Or, a person putting her bag on the seat so I couldn't sit down - and then moving it a few seconds later so that another Japanese person could sit down. Plus, being stared at multiple times a day...especially by kids or a man on a bike (who rode by with his mouth open wider than I thought possible).  And again, most of the time - these glances are easy to brush off and to laugh at. And, most of the time - I assume that people are just afraid that I may speak English to them (because let's face it - I am terrified that they may speak Japanese to me). However, some days - these glances and looks - just make me want to blend in...or conform even. I was talking to Kaz about this - the fact that one can feel pressure to conform without anyone ever telling them to do so. Interesting thought...

And - to point out the sunny side here - I have to say that none of these situations have left me feeling like anyone was trying to be intentionally mean to me. And, most people you interact with will smile and giggle uncomfortably and then at least try to help you! And sometimes you will even have people who comment on your attempts at learning Japanese.  For example, Kaz and I were at dinner the other night - and I attempted to order my meal - and as I did - the mother sitting next to us said to her children something along the lines of - "See, maybe someday your English will be good enough that you can order like that woman did." I didn't actually understand what she said - but Kaz did!

Language 
Oh...the sun and clouds of learning a new language. Like I mentioned a few posts back...I think "language" may be the most common theme of a blog post throughout my time here. I am finding that learning Japanese is like a roller coaster. One day - I have a great lesson - I feel like I am learning a lot...and I have the confidence to go out and put myself into a speaking situation. And, then I do - and I remember that learning a few greetings, grammar points, and vocabulary words does not necessarily translate into actually being able to carry out a communication situation. And then frustration sets in...and I think to myself - well, even if I studied 40 hours per week - I still wouldn't be able to learn Japanese well enough to talk to people. But...I may get there quicker. And then the frustrations motivates me to study more - so I study and I take lessons and I watch YouTube videos and I start to understand a tad more and being to catch some grammar rules...and I feel on top of the world. Then, I realize that I spent all of my spare time during that week studying Japanese and I didn't do much else. And then I'm back at the moment of frustration where I start to wonder where balance plays a role in this whole equation...because I want to experience Japan and learn the language all at the same time. Phew!! And, this thought process occurs daily - if not more. 

And poor Kaz often gets the brunt of my frustration. He is great at helping me to study and practice - and there are days when I am totally into it...and there are days when my patience and tolerance are next to nothing...and I can go from excited and willing to study to not wanting to even go there in about 3 seconds.

If I take a step back and look at language as a whole - I know that I am learning - about how the language works, about how to listen to the language, and about how to use the language (since the grammar is so different). My mind is constantly looking for rules and patterns - and I am realizing that most native Japanese speakers don't know the rules. Just like - I probably wouldn't know the rules/patterns for English. The comparison I have been using is...trying to learn everything an adult knows about the language in two years (when it took them twenty plus years to get to that point). I am also fascinated by the fact that we can learn language starting at such a young age with little to no direct instruction. Amazing!

So - I have decided that I will continue to find balance...and to learn and to make mistakes...and to be patient with myself in this entire language process. And to know that the roller coaster will continue - making me a better speech-language pathologist and person in the process. 

Homesickness
The moments when the newness is overwhelming are the moments when I miss home the most! I miss the familiarity, the predictability...and most importantly the people! I am reminded that the process of meeting people often starts out with that feeling of having to be "on" all the time...almost like having your guard up - but not totally. I have challenged myself to put myself out there and to meet as many people as I can. I have begun to meet many people in the "expat" community and everyone is nice, supportive, and willing to offer pointers...as we are all on a similar journey. I am also settling in at the school and beginning to meet people there. And, I have begun to contemplate how I might make some Japanese friends when language really only allows for me to introduce myself. That conversation would last about three seconds! I am working on being me...and not worrying so much about what others think...after all - at the end of the day - the only person we can be is ourself! I'm sure that this piece of the journey - like all the others - will continue to evolve.

I am also eternally grateful for technology and it's ability to keep me connected with my support network back home. Emails, skype calls, texts, facetime sessions, letters, packages, and good vibes have helped me to forget the distance and to truly be able to say that love and support knows absolutely no borders! Love travels and it feels AMAZING!! :)

I will end this post with a few pictures of our recent "finds" that have reminded us of home...which include a burger place with imported beer from the US...and even a bowling alley (I know bowling is an international sport - but it just reminded me of home). 

Next week I will be heading home for two weeks (for two conferences) - and I am interested to see what it will be like both to be back in the US and also to return to Japan at a time when things are a bit less "honeymooney" than the first time!

As I close this post - I am thinking about all the other posts I want to write! About the ways in which my job is evolving and challenging me in ways I never expected it to...about various tidbits I've learned about Japan...and even about funny situations I've witnessed or found myself in. I guess just like the clouds float across a sunny sky - these moments come and go throughout the day. And, sometimes there are more clouds than sun...and sometimes there is more sun than clouds! Hmmm...

Love to you all!

Sunny Moments: New experiences, learning, technology, connecting with family and friends, love and support, challenges, growth!

Cloudy Moments: Frustration, challenges, homesickness, judgement....

Monday, February 15, 2016

Travel Entry - Mountains, Monkeys, and More!

This weekend, Kaz and I took a road trip to explore the Japanese Alps (the Nagano area). I never realized it before - but Japan is actually a really popular destination for winter sports (especially Nagano and the northern island of Hokkaido - that's on our "To-Do" list). Since many hotels were booked (I am quickly learning that in Japan - people plan trips way early...my guess is most Valentine's weekend trips were booked before we even moved to Japan!) - we decided to make our weekend a bit of a "multi-destination" trip and get a feel for the area! 

~*Matsumoto*~ 
On Friday night, we drove about two hours to Matsumoto. On the drive, I pointed out kanji symbols to Kaz that I had been studying earlier in the day...I still don't actually know what they mean yet or how to use them...but it's a start! And, we drove through more tunnels on one drive then I think I have driven through to date...one of them was actually 5 miles long! They literally built roads in Japan by tunneling through mountains. I enjoyed it...Kaz not so much (he's rather claustrophobic). 

Once arriving at our hotel, I was able to truly experience the use of the words kin'en (non-smoking) and kitsuen (smoking)...as we were mistakenly placed in a smoking room (not sure of the last time I smelled a smokey hotel room). After a quick dinner of ramen at a little hole in the wall restaurant...we turned in for the night (in our non-smoking room). 

The next morning, we headed to Matsumoto Castle (after a quick stop at a souvenir shop to check for Kit Kats, of course!). Matsumoto Castle is one of Japan's premier historic castles - and aside from some renovations/structural repairs over time - actually stands as it did when it was built in 1504. Matsumoto Castle is also on the list of "National Treasures of Japan" (there are only five castles on this list). Many landmarks in Japan did not survive the war, but have since been rebuilt. Tourists can actually go inside Matsumoto Castle and see the interior (many castles have been made into museums inside - so you can't actually get a feel for what it used to be like). The staircases were definitely the most challenging part - all different angles with steps of varying depths. I should have taken pictures of us clutching the handrails! After exploring the castle - I even got to "fight" (pose) with a samurai and ninja!

 

 













~*Jigokudani Monkey Park*~
Next, we headed to Yamanouchi (in Nagano prefecture - another two-hour drive) to Jigokudani Monkey Park. The name Jigokudani actually means "Hell's Valley" because of the steam and boiling water that bubbles out of the ground. (This area of Japan is very popular because of these "hot springs"). This park is famous for the wild Japanese macaques (snow monkeys) that inhabit its ground every winter. They travel here after foraging in other parts of the national park during the rest of the year. To get to where the monkeys are, visitors have to walk on a rather narrow path for a little over one mile. That wouldn't usually be a big deal - but due to unseasonably warm temperatures and rain over the weekend - the path was a mixture of mud, ice, and who knows what else. We sloshed slowly through it...and it was worth the trek! 

Once you enter the area - there are literally monkeys everywhere....existing as though people aren't there watching them. Usually visitors will see the monkeys soaking in the hot springs; however, since it was warm - most of them were rolling in the snow. We saw one monkey eating an entire apple - one try to grab a lady's bag of food (which she wasn't supposed to have anyway) - and another try to jump on a woman's back. Other than that - they kept to themselves and refused to actually look at the camera (I really wanted a monkey selfie!).  

~*Hakuba - Winter Sports and Onsen Region*~
After a day of castle visiting, monkey watching, and another two-hour drive, it was time for my first ryokan/onsen experience. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn, which usually features tatami-matted rooms, communal baths, and meals (in which guests wear yukatas). In the Nagano area, water from the hot springs are often pumped into these baths - making them more popular and desirable. Usually, there are public onsens (that guests and the general public can use); more private onsens that people can reserve for 30-45 minutes...if not completely comfortable with the whole being naked around strangers concept. And, if you are really lucky...rooms that have a small but private onsen. I should also mention that aside from ryokans with onsens - public onsens are everywhere in this region...and you can move from onsen to onsen as you wish (they are only a few dollars to enter). They are usually split up by gender...and, you shower and scrub clean before being able to soak in them. Japan is big on the idea of keeping clean and dirty separate! 

When we checked in, we found out that we had been given a room with a private onsen - totally not expected but surely welcome (still working up some courage at the idea of a public onsen). After some tea and sweets to warm us up after our journey - I love Japanese hospitality - we were escorted to our room. As promised - the room was covered in tatami mats. Notice that there isn't a bed?! When you go down to dinner - someone comes up and sets up futons (mattresses) on the floor for you to sleep on...actually way more comfortable than one would think. 

Many ryokans feature both dinner and breakfast (as it is most common to stay for one night only). Sometimes the meal will be served in your room and other times you go to a communal area. We actually had our own little room/cubby downstairs to eat in...which was neat. You can go to dinner wearing your clothes - but they often provide you with a yukata to wear. A yukata is usually made of cotton and is sort of like a summer kimono. I was super excited to wear mine until we both realized that we had no idea how to actually wear them...or tie the sashes properly. Thirty minutes of YouTube videos and how-to websites...and we were at least presentable...though our "bows" didn't seem to match anyone else's! 


The meal was a traditional Japanese meal, which meant many courses and lots of items that I was unable to identify. Luckily, Kaz was able to identify most...and I tried almost everything (with exception of raw shrimp with eyes and some fish gut-jelly thing). I found out later, that unbeknownst to me...I ate something containing jellyfish and something containing squid intestines. Glad I didn't know that at the time. After dinner - both of us were too full to do anything! Overall, dinner was yummy...and at the same time - not something I could replicate or eat everyday!

The next morning, we ate a quick Japanese breakfast...buffet style with lots of rice, fish, and pickle things (I found fruit and yogurt)...and headed home. We had hoped to spend the day exploring Hakuba, but the rainy weather put a hold on those plans. Darn, I guess we'll have to come back to this area!

We had a great weekend...and I would definitely recommend our excursions to others. I have a feeling too...that over the next two years...I will be visiting some more onsens! 

Sunny Moments: New experiences - sights, smells and more!; No rain on Saturday!; Apple Kit Kats (Nagano is famous for apples).
Cloudy Moments: Not getting to see Hakuba; needing to work up the courage to try some public onsens! ;)

Monday, February 8, 2016

Month 1 in Review...

I thought it would be fun...to reflect on each month we are in Japan. Whether it be places we visited, things we did, lessons I learned, emotions I felt, etc. Without further ado - here is Month 1 in review.

Places Visited
  • LOTS and LOTS of stores - of every kind. Grocery, home improvement, dollar, furniture, etc. 
    • I have quickly learned that Japan LOVES point cards...LOVES them. We now have a spare wallet with all of the point cards...and no clue if half of them will even be worth it!
  • Neighborhoods around our place - whether running, walking, or eating! 
  • Otsu 
  • Lake Biwa
  • Nagoya Castle
  • Tokyo
Cafes Enjoyed
  • Nagoya Area
    • Cafe Cosmonaute
    • Le Plaisir du pain
    • Cups Cafe
    • Sora Cafe 2
  • Tokyo
    • Toranomon Coffee
    • Sarutahiko Coffee
    • Owl Cafe (though not actually a cafe)






Kit Kat Flavors Tasted 
Kaz and I are rating each of the Kit Kats as we eat them - so look for a much more detailed post in the future. 
  • Uji Matcha (Kyoto Green Tea)
  • Matcha (normal Green Tea)
  • Strawberry
  • Dark Chocolate
  • Hojicha
  • Pistachio & Raspberry ("Special" Line)
  • Strawberry & Maple ("Special" Line)
  • Green Tea & Kinako (powder) ("Special" Line)
  • Butter ("Special" Line)
  • Strawberry ("Fruit" Line)
  • Red Bean Sandwich
  • Blueberry ("Fruit" Line)
  • Passion Fruit ("Fruit" Line)


Victories
  • Getting a bit more comfortable with public transit - have taken subway, local trains, and one bus on my own. 
  • Slowly getting the hang of grocery shopping (haven't really talked much yet); using GoogleTranslate; hang drying laundry. 
  • Surviving lots of deliveries and shipments - and getting our place "settled" for the most part. 
  • Obtained work permit; have begun to work two days a week at Nagoya International School. Beginning to build up a caseload and meet people (everyone has been so nice and helpful).
  • Started Japanese lessons last week - will take for two hours/twice per week. 
  • Putting myself out there and meeting new people.
  • Learning about Japanese culture - went to a bamboo vase making class and also celebrated Setsubun. 
  • And more...







Goals
  • Buy tickets for transit by talking - not just ordering through a machine. Explore more bus routes and even venture to a bigger city on my own. 
  • Allow myself time to read basic katakana and hiragana at grocery store. Ask where something is. Begin to figure out how much something costs without looking at cash register - listening only.
  • Continue to learn about students who are multiple-language learners. Expand my knowledge base!!
  • Continue leaning Japanese - becoming quicker at reading hiragana/katakana; beginning to learn kanji; increasing vocabulary; increasing speaking confidence and willingness to fumble through what I want to say.
  • Continue stepping outside of comfort zone and meeting new people.
  • Continue learning about Japanese culture...especially through art!
  • Focus on being a bit more accepting of emotions that arise. The first few weeks were definitely the "honeymoon/whirlwind" period that people talk about. As I write this, homesickness has begun to creep in - cycling in intensity depending on the day. 
  • And more...
Sunny Moments
In addition to those listed above...

  • Keeping in touch with family and friends through email, texts, blog comments, videos, and Skype calls.
  • Blogging!
  • Surviving one month in Japan!

Cloudy Moments
In addition to those listed above...

  • Homesickness creeping in...
  • Difficulty communicating...
  • Having to deal with a severely sprained ankle - in a place that relies on walking...and also in a place where I can't just go to a doctor to get in checked in case. Though very thankful that one of the wives I've met over here is a doctor!! 
Much love to family and friends!! <3


Thursday, February 4, 2016

Setsubun

Yesterday, thanks to Kaz, I "celebrated" my first Japanese holiday (and some of the traditions that went along with it!). February 3rd in Japan is a holiday called Setsubun. Setsubun literally means "seasonal divide" - but usually refers to the spring Setsubun (called Risshun). Previously Setsubun was thought of as sort of a New Year's Eve (because of its association with the lunar calendar). And, it is often accompanied with a ritual of cleansing away the evil from the past year and also driving away the disease-bringing evil spirits for the year to come.

I learned that different parts of Japan celebrate this holiday in different ways - with different activities/customs. The most common ritual is called mamemaki, which means "bean scattering." In this ritual, individuals take roasted soybeans (often called fortune beans) and throw them out the door or at a family member wearing an Oni (demon or monster) mask while yelling "Demons Out! Luck In!" Traditionally, the head of the household (male) would carry out this task - but over time it has become something that all family members participate in (or put their own twist on). The beans are thought to purify the home and drive away evil, bad luck, and sickness. It is also considered good luck to eat a soybean for each year of your life (so, 29 beans for me and 30 beans for Kaz).


Kaz and I got some beans at the grocery store (and from my Japanese tutor). They were also giving out masks at the grocery store too! Since we live in a condo complex - we didn't actually throw the beans outside or at each other...but we did take turns wearing the mask, telling the demons to go away, and eating our roasted soybeans (the rest will be mixed into trail mix)! 

In the Kansai region (where Kaz's family is from) - there is also a tradition to eat uncut makizushi called ehou-maki ("lucky direction roll") in silence while facing the year's lucky direction. This tradition has spread to other parts of Japan and we have seen many of the combini's (convenience stores) advertising the rolls. Traditionally, people would make the rolls - but that often involves a lot of work - and you are able to buy them quite easily. We - er, well, I - decided that we should make our own rolls...at least this year! 

Ehou-maki basically look like fat sushi rolls. You can choose your own ingredients for them; however, there are many ingredients that people often choose from. We put seven ingredients in our rolls because seven is considered a lucky number in Japan. You need big pieces of seaweed (called nori), you need rice (to fill the rolls), and then you need your fillers cut up into small strips to place inside the roll. We used: mushrooms, spinach, cucumber, egg, root, imitation crab, and cod roe.  First, you lay out the seaweed, then you arrange the rice, then the fillings, and then you roll! The little cup of water in the picture is to dip your fingers in - since the rice tends to stick. You have to be careful though - too much water will make your roll soggy and moist. 


We cut this roll - just so you could see the inside!
This year's direction was south-south-east (basically looking out our patio doors).  I ate my roll in silence as Kaz made the occasional comment to try and get me to laugh. Those rolls are super filling and actually take a while to eat! Then we ate the leftover one sitting down! :)

Hopefully we have vanished the sickness, evil, and bad luck from our household and the households of our family and friends all over the world! I heard that back in the US the groundhog didn't see his shadow - and so Spring is on it's way for you all too!

If you want to celebrate Setsubun next year - just let us know. We can send you a mask and some beans...the rolls might not travel as well!

More soon!

Sunny moments: learning a new tradition, yummy rolls, being silly and wearing Oni masks.
Cloudy moments: rice everywhere?! ;)